Day Trip to Nerja from Granada

We originally wanted to fit a few days at the Costa del Sol (Spain’s South coast) into our latest trip itinerary, but we just didn’t have enough time.  As a compromise, we decided to squeeze in a short day trip to the town of Nerja while we were staying 3 nights in Granada.  Alsa, a bus carrier in Spain, runs 7 trips per day to connect the two towns.  Each trip takes approximately 2 to 2½ hours and costs €10 each way.  The bus station in Granada is not centrally located, but can be reached easily by local buses or taxi.  The Nerja station is also not central, but is a quick 10 minute walk to the main retail and restaurant area or a 10-20 minute walk to any of the town’s great beaches. Although a trip back and forth is a lot to fit into a day, we thought our journey to Nerja was well worth the time investment.  We experienced a whole new culture of Spain, and enjoyed some excellent sunshine, cheap food, and warm Mediterranean water.

The ride to Nerja on the Alsa bus was very pleasant.  The drive follows a major highway that skirts by the Sierra Nevada mountains.  It passes over several dramatic gorges and by  many wind turbines, both major feats in engineering.  After reaching the ocean, if follows along the local road connecting all the coastal towns.  There are at least 2 stops between Granada and Nerja.  One nice surprise was that our Alsa bus to Nerja had free wifi on-board, which allowed us to do trip planning en route.  We were not so fortunate on our way back.

Once arriving in Nerja, we followed the road down to the Balcony of Europe, which is pictured above.  On the way, we picked-up a beach towel for €6 (well worth it in comparison to dragging your own all around Europe).  The Balcony of Europe offers some very picturesque views of the surrounding beaches, coastal mountains, and the expansive Mediterranean.  Africa is likely too far away to see even on a very clear day, but it’s exciting thinking it’s just beyond the horizon.

Continue reading

Traveling on RENFE Through Spain

Back in July, I posted on our positive and money-saving experience of booking tickets online before our trip.  I figure I’d post a follow up on our success with using the online tickets, as well as our experience on riding RENFE’s trains.  We bought tickets for 3 individual journeys online to connect Barcelona, Sevilla, Granada, and Madrid.

Our original plan was to collect paper copies of our tickets from the self service machines at each train station.  Our desire was to get “real” tickets that my wife could use to scrapbook, but we brought along paper copies from our printer at home as backup (which work just as well, as far as the conductor is concerned).  It’s good we brought along the printouts, because the self service machines at the Barcelona train station did not have a clear option to change languages and certainly no option to print tickets from an advanced purchase (although this is supposedly available).  With little time before our departure, we decided to forego the “real” tickets and head straight to the train. Continue reading

Mudéjar Elegance at Sevilla’s Alcázar

Sevilla impressed us all around, from its cathedral to the Barrio de Santa Cruz, but perhaps most at the Alcázar.  The Alcázar is a palace originally built for local Muslim rulers in the 10th century, but then rebuilt by a Christian king in the 14th century.  It is built in the “Mudéjar” style, which is Moorish style built for Christians.  It contains many of the same elements of Moorish architecture (e.g. the Alhambra), but you can also see images of living creatures, which are forbidden in Islamic architecture. 

The Alcázar’s Courtyard of the Maidens (Patio de las Doncellas) is a highlight of not only Sevilla, but all of Spain.

The entrance of the Alcázar looks like a medieval fortress, not that different from other old castles in Europe.  After entering the fortress walls, the first destination is the Admiral’s Room, where visitors can appreciate the space where Columbus, Magellan, and other explorers planned their journeys to the new world.  The real highlight is just beyond, at the Courtyard of the Maidens (pictured above).  The courtyard appears to be perfectly preserved, complete with a reflecting pool and ornate Mudéjar imagery adorning arches.  We took arguably our best photograph in Spain.  Unlike our daytime visit to the Alhambra in Granada, we were able to appreciate the space in nearly complete solitude.

Continue reading

Experiencing Sevilla’s Bullfighting Tradition Without the Violence

We’ve heard many reports from Americans returning from Spain that are appalled by the blood and violence of bullfighting.  To be honest, this didn’t turn me off.  In fact, I was originally excited that our stay in Sevilla, arguably the bullfighting capital of Spain, straddled a Sunday night when bullfights traditionally occur.  It was our misfortune that this fall’s Novillos (amateur bullfighters with young bulls) were rescheduled for the first time from Sunday to Thursday nights.  Still anxious to get a taste of this facet of Spanish culture, we decided to spend an hour at the museum at Sevilla’s Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza.  Bilingual tours are offered 3 times per hour for €6.50.

The tour offers a glimpse at the inside of Sevilla’s Plaza de Toros, which is still a great photo op, even when empty.

We thought the tour was well worth the time and investment, and certainly gave us a good introduction to bullfighting history, as well as some “basics”.  In fact, we both discussed that we would recommend a visit to the museum to even those planning on attending a bullfight.  The material covered in the tour would no doubt give spectators a better appreciation of the sport.

Continue reading

iPhone Offline Map Caching: The Perfect International Travel Companion

At home, we’ve become reliant on our vehicle navigation systems or smartphones to tell us how to get from one place to another.  It is difficult when traveling abroad to give-up this luxury, especially in places like Europe, where many cities were planned before the advent of the automobile, and directions and addressing isn’t always intuitive.  Paying for a data plan for smartphones is one solution, but it quickly becomes cost prohibitive.  This last trip, however, we discovered a very elegant workaround: if we explored the areas we planned on visiting in the iOS maps application on our hotel wi-fi connection, when we later went out, that map data would be cached and available for our use.  If there was a specific place we planned on going to, we would do a search right before, and “drop a pin” on the location.  Even with cellular data off, the phone’s GPS and compass function, allowing you to see yourself as the “little blue dot” in relation to your destination. Continue reading