Act Like A Local: Rent an Apartment in Paris

I was not surprised when Arthur Frommer included “renting an apartment” in his talk about travel trends.  It’s becoming easier and easier with websites dedicated to just that (many of them were mentioned in Frommer’s talk).

Renting apartments while on a trip is becoming more and more popular.  In many cases, regular hotels or B&Bs work perfectly for us, but when we were planning our September 2009 trip, Ryan and I were having a difficult time finding a place to stay in Paris.  It was a combination of the location, the price, and the feel of the hotel.

SuitcaseJournal: Act Like a Local - Rent an Apartment in Paris!

The key to our apartment was sent to use prior to our departure from the United States.

After looking through the possibilities, we stumbled upon a couple of sites on which you could rent an apartment for your stay in Paris.

Paris Perfect has a beautiful site with a lot of information.  The company is based in Paris, which means someone will meet you at the apartment, open the door for you, show you around, provide recommendations for places to eat and things to do, and help you with anything else you need like Health & Safety services Wilmslow. However, the minimum stay is 7 nights, and we were only staying 3, so Paris Perfect was out for us. (Note: There is also an Italy Perfect and a London Perfect)

Vacation in Paris is the second website we started looking through.  We focused on the studios and one bedroom apartments, and quickly found a long list of apartments that allowed a 3 night stay (note: many required an additional cleaning fee for shorter stays) and were in neighborhoods that interested us.  This company is based in the United States, which worked well for us – I called to make a reservation and was sent a key in the mail prior to our departure.  The apartment we rented is no longer available to rent, but here are a few pictures (taken from the Vacation in Paris site – the apartment looked exactly like the pictures):

SuitcaseJournal: Act Like a Local - Rent an Apartment in Paris!

What are some of the advantages of staying in an apartment instead of a hotel?  For us, it was more of a novelty, but for a traveler staying for a longer period of time and/or with a family, an apartment can be a huge money-saver.  Many hotel rooms in Europe are made for two guests.  Adding additional guests, booking larger rooms, or booking several rooms will definitely increase the cost.  However, when booking an apartment, there are different sizes to choose from, and some are very reasonable!

For our 3 day stay, we went out to restaurants for most meals.  However, had we decided to stay for longer, it would have been tempting to cook our own meals.  Apartments are great for this!  Buy fresh ingredients at one of the local markets, use the kitchen in your apartment to prepare the food, and enjoy the results with a bottle of wine in your very own private dining area.

Of course there are so many different companies and website that offer apartment rentals.  Try vrbo, which will allow you to contact the owner directly. Staying for longer? Paristay has several apartments available if you plan on staying for over 3 months (there are also some available for weekly rentals).

 

Travel Trends from Frommer

As I mentioned in my last post, Arthur Frommer gave one of the talks at the LA Travel Conference last weekend. The topic was travel trends and hot destinations, which are two topics that often change year after year, so we were excited to see what he had to say. Some things came as a surprise or were new to us, while others were expected but nonetheless interesting to hear about.

 Travel Trends:

  • Substitution of apartments and homes for hotel rooms.  Not only can you save some money, but often apartments and homes will be more spacious (with extra amenities such as kitchens) and you might be able to score a great location.  Some sites to check out include vrbo, airbnb, and Endless Vacation Rentals.  While we have yet to use one of those sites, we did choose to rent an apartment in Paris, and loved the experience!
  • Nickel-and-diming of airline passengers.  While this isn’t necessarily new information, it does serve as a reminder to check for hidden fees when booking flights.  
  • Rise in operation of cheap intercity buses.  BoltBus (operates in the northeastern US) and Megabus (operates in US and Canada, as well the UK) offer an alternative to driving, taking the train and flying between big cities.  The best part – prices are very competitive and as low as $1 for a trip!
  • Rise in popularity of European river cruises.  They stop right in the heart of each city, but can be a bit pricey.  Frommer has been on several and noted that the majority of travelers were older (and those that were young appeared to be bored).  I’ve always wanted to try out a river cruise, so I’ll keep this in mind before booking.
  • Walking tours.  But not just any walking tour – book a tour by specialists or someone in academics to ensure accurate information.  Some of the recommended sites: Vayable, Urban Adventures, and Context Travel.  Many of the walking tours guarantee small groups, which usually means a much more enjoyable experience.
  • Rise in popularity of “learning vacations.”  For a different type of vacation, check out summer programs at top universities that are open to more than just the students.  Not only can you take classes with interesting subject matter, but the packages include accommodations and dining – both at the college.  Frommer mentioned courses at the following universities:  Oxford, Cambridge, and St. John’s College.  
  • Increase in free accommodations.  Stay for free on someone’s couch!  Couchsurfing,   Global Freeloaders, and US Servas offer similar services – connect online through the site and find a host in the desired city.  This isn’t for everyone, and not something I would try on my own, but for some people in certain situations, this is a great way to cut down on travel costs. 

Hottest Destinations:

  • China.  Frommer revealed the unbelievably low prices for week-long tours of China through China Spree – as low as $899, all inclusive (flights, too!), during the winter months – and we were shocked!  Asia, and specifically China, has officially been added to our list of places to visit in the near future.  (We looked through the China Spree site, and while we couldn’t find any of the rock-bottom pricing mentioned by Frommer, there were several different tour options with very attractive pricing.)
  • Ireland.  Cheap airfares and even vouchers for transportation and accommodations through Aer Lingus make Ireland a hot destination this year. 
  • India.  The currency conversion between the US dollar and the rupee is advantageous at this time.  While the flight there may be expensive, staying in India will be cheap!
  • Dubai.  This is the perfect location for luxury, but possibly not much else.  Frommer brought up the lack of culture, so this may not be the top destination for all travelers. 
  • Miami and Miami Beach.  Always a hot destination, with plenty of authentic South American restaurants without leaving the country!
  • Colorado and Washington.  In all honesty, I’m not sure if these two actually made the list, or if Frommer was making a joke.  The reason they made the list is the recent legalization of marijuana in the two states.

So there is it – the list of trends and hot destinations straight from Arthur Frommer.  My favorite bits of information from the talk include the learning vacations and China as a cheap destination.  Frommer was very lively and clearly enjoys travel – it gives me hope for when we are older and still want to travel the world!

Around the World in One Day: LA Times Travel Show 2013

Ryan and I attended one day of the 2013 LA Travel Show – our first time at a travel convention.  I found out about it after looking at Rick Steves’s website under the “Where’s Rick?” section (I like to see where he’s traveling – especially if he is filming new shows).  After checking out the website for the travel show, I bought one-day tickets.  At $10 each, it was a bargain to be able to see Rick Steves in person.  As an added bonus, we saw that Arthur Frommer and Phil Keoghan (host of “The Amazing Race”) were also speaking.

We started out the day by wandering through the booths set up in a large, open room in the convention center.  First up was the Singapore Airlines booth where we were able to sit in one of their first class “pods” – what an experience!  Although I doubt I will ever be able to afford to fly in such luxury, it was fun to see what it would be like.  Each pod is set up for one person, but the pods in the middle of the plane can be combined (the wall comes down) to form a larger bed and space for two!

Singapore Air, Travel Conference

 It’s hard to imagine having all of this room on a flight, just for me!

Travel Conference, LA

We wandered around a bit before heading in to see Arthur Frommer speak in the large auditorium.  The exhibition (pictured below) was set up by region and we spent most of the time in the European and Asian section. There was a mix of airlines, travel agents, tour companies, and more.  By the time we left, I was hooked on the idea of a vacation in Asia.  All of the destinations were so enticing – China, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Taiwan, and more!  I’ve never felt less-traveled or had more of a desire to hop on a plane and explore a new place.  It was so much fun to look at pictures and imagine a vacation in each destination.  

Rick Steves

Since all of the speakers on the “big stage” were well-known, we decided it was worth our time to see each one.  Arthur Frommer talked about travel trends (I plan to write a more detailed post on this later), Phil Keoghan described his extreme adventures, and Rick Steves’s talk was one we had heard dozens of times, as it followed his “Travel Skills” show (and podcast by the same name).  Even having heard the talk before, we got a kick out of seeing Rick live. And as an added bonus, I had the pleasure of meeting him and getting his autograph!  It was a fantastic finish to an already-amazing day. 

In addition to all of the fun we experienced at the big stage, there were also smaller stages set up throughout the exhibition that featured various travel topics, from what to expect on a cruise to must-have travel apps for your smart phone.  There was even a cooking demonstration stage!  I can definitely see the need for a two-day ticket to the event, if you really want to see it all.  

Overall it was a great way to spend the day, and I would consider going again next year, depending on who is planning to speak.  At the very least, it got us thinking about new places to visit, and that’s something to look forward to!  

Food Run-Down: Cinque Terre, Italy 2009

Cinque Terre is a hidden gem on Italy’s Ligurian coast that is a must-see.  It’s becoming more and more popular, but the pedestrian-only towns with colorful buildings is still worth a trip.  If you try one dish in Cinque Terre, try the trofie al pesto – Cinque Terre is the birthplace of pesto and this dish highlights the flavors.  The homemade trofie pasta is mixed with pesto, green beans, and potatoes and goes great with a (cheap) glass of local wine.  If your visit is longer, take advantage of the fresh seafood, caught earlier that day.

Meal: Lunch at Taverno Del Capitano (Sept. 7, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) white wine (looks like a half liter)
    (2) mixed bruschetta (they all had tomatoes, and in addition we tried: capers, mozzarella, anchovies, and pesto)
    (3) pesto pizza
    (4) pesto lasagna

Taverna Del Capitano, Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $$-$$$ – I don’t remember the exact prices, but somewhere in the neighborhood of €10 for the main dishes. 
  • Overall thoughts: this restaurant is situated at the edge of the harbor, so it was a perfect spot to take in Vernazza on our first afternoon.  Our waiter was very friendly and was encouraging me to practice my Italian (or my Spanish, if I felt more comfortable), which was a great was to be welcomed to the city.  It was here that I really fell in love with bruschetta – the tomatoes were fresh, juicy, and full of flavor, and I loved their creative pairings with other local foods. 

Meal: Happy Hour at Ananasso Bar in Vernazza (Sept. 7-9, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) bellini
    (2) prosecco
    (3) white wine
    (4) snacks (various – they were free)

Ananasso Bar, Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $ – reasonably-priced drinks with a 5-star view.
  • Overall thoughts: one of my favorite spots from Cinque Terre – I still dream about this place!  We reflected on our day while enjoying a drink and watching the sun set into the water.  An added bonus was the snacks, which kept us from satisfied between lunch and dinner. 

Meal: Dinner at Trattoria Gianni Franzi (Sept. 7, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) anchovies cooked in lemon sauce
    (2) trofie al pesto (homemade Ligurian pasta with pesto)
    (3) spaghetti ai muscoli (spaghetti with mussels)
    (4) a bottle of the house white wine
    (5) local cheese (to finish the meal)

Trattoria Gianni Franzi, Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: again, I don’t remember and I didn’t write anything down.  I don’t think anything was too outrageous throughout Cinque Terre.  Probably a $$-$$$ price range.
  • Overall Thoughts: This meal was perfect as our first dinner.  We tried it all – anchovies, trofie al pesto, seafood pasta, wine from the region, and local cheeses.  The pesto was amazing – more Parmesan cheese than I typically taste, which was a huge plus for me.  I also loved the additions of potatoes and green beans, and of course the trofie pasta itself – once mixed up, the trofie is left with a thick coat of pesto.  This is the dish to try while in the Cinque Terre!

Meal: Lunch at Dau Tinola in Corniglia, Cinque Terre, Italy (Sept. 8, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) Prosciutto e melone – €11
    (2) Spaghetti ai frutti di mare – €11.50
    (3) Trenette al pesto – €11.50
    (4) Cinque Terre “La Polenza” vino (a bottle) – €17.50

Dau Tinola, Corniglia, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $$-$$$
  • Overall thoughts: probably the worst meal in Cinque Terre, but it could have been because our experience wasn’t that great (as opposed to the food).  I will say that the trofie suits the pesto sauce better than spaghetti/linguini.  The seafood pasta was still fantastic and included a larger variety of seafood than normal.  

Meal: Dinner at Gambero Rosso (Sept. 8, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) insalata caprese – €15
    (2) tegame di Vernazza (anchovies baked with potatoes and tomatoes) – €12
    (3) mussles cooked with wine and parsley – €12
    (4) vino della casa (1 liter) – €12
    (5) dessert (not sure what it was, but there is a picture below!)

Gambero Rosso, Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $$-$$$ – this is getting boring, but it’s another very reasonably-priced dinner in Vernazza!
  • Overall thoughts: another restaurant underneath the umbrellas.  It seems you can’t go wrong with the restaurants around the harbor in Vernazza!  Ryan tried the fresh anchovies which are another local specialty to try while visiting (much different than the salty canned anchovies, although those are great, too!).  The crowds at the restaurant were lively, and we had fun people-watching while we enjoyed the meal. 

Meal: Lunch at Trattoria La Scogliera in Manarola, Cinque Terre, Italy (Sept. 9, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) linguini alle vongole veraci (fresh clams) – €7.80
    (2) ravioli al pesto Genovese – €7.80
    (3) formaggi misti (mixed cheese plate) – €6
    (4) Cinque Terre D.O.C. wine – €15

Trattoria La Scogliera, Manarola, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $$
  • Overall thoughts: Luckily this restaurant stayed open a bit later than others in the area (we didn’t make it to Manarola until a little before 2:00pm).  I stuck with one of my favorites: seafood pasta in a white wine sauce, which was an ideal lunch (light and fresh!).  Ryan wanted another round of pesto pasta, this time in the form of ravioli, which was very tasty (I still like the trofie pasta the best).  The outdoor seating allowed us to watch the busy walkway as people made their way down toward the marina. 

Meal: Dinner at La Torre (Sept. 9, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) spaghetti scoglio (“reef spaghetti” – served with crustaceans & red sauce) – €11
    (2) pesto lasagna – €10
    (3) two glasses of white wine – €5 each

Dinner Day 3, Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $$
  • Overall thoughts: this is a great option if you want to sneak away from the main square in Vernazza.  It’s a bit of a climb, but the result is an intimate restaurant with outdoor seating.  I would suggest going for lunch or an earlier dinner to enjoy the views of the town and sea below.  The food was consistent with our other meals in Cinque Terre – fresh, reasonably-priced, and delicious local specialties (pesto and seafood). 

Cinque Terre, and especially Vernazza, is on the top of my recommendation list for Italy. The pedestrian-only towns, the friendly locals, the carefree tourists, the sparkling sea, and the fresh and delicious food are just a few reasons to make a stop here on your trip.  Don’t forget to try many of the local specialties – trofie al pesto, fresh seafood (including anchovies!), and local wine.  I can’t wait to visit again for another taste of the Ligurian cuisine!

Food Run-Down: Venice, Italy 2009

After a lost food notebook scare (from our Portugal and Spain trip), I’ve decided to start digitally documenting the meals enjoyed during our travels.  These posts won’t be too detailed, but I will include where we ate, what we ordered (and some pictures), how much it cost, and an overall comment on the food/restaurant.  I’m starting at the beginning with Venice 2009 and will work my way through London 2012.  So, without further ado: Venice!

With a few exceptions, our food choices in Venice focused on anything from the sea. Since it was a first trip to Italy for the both of us, we also made sure to try pasta and pizza, the Italian staples here in the US.  Nothing we had was disappointing and after this trip we have continued dreamt of the Venetian cuisine.

One tip I’ve recently read is to visit the morning fish market to see what’s for sale – that will give you an idea of what is fresh from that day when you are ordering fish later that night for dinner.  I didn’t even think of that on this trip, so I stuck to whatever sounded delicious (and it never led me astray). 

Meal: Dinner at Trattoria Povoledo (Sept. 4, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) Collalto Chardonnay – €20
    (2) Spaghetti ai frutti di mare (seafood pasta) – €15
    (3) Prosciutto pizza – €12

Trattoria Povoledo, Venice, Italy

  • Price: $$ – not bad for a (presumably) touristy restaurant right on the Grand Canal.
  • Overall thoughts: I was so happy with our first meal in Italy.  Yes, it was on the Grand Canal, so while it may have been a touristy place, the prices were reasonable and the food was fresh and light.  My seafood pasta was delicious (the spaghetti was cooked al dente, perfection!) and Ryan’s pizza was so good that I wanted to order pizza the next day (I used to eat pizza very rarely, so this was a big deal!).  The view was also a huge plus.  We had just arrived in Venice, so it was my chance to admire the Grand Canal for the first time.

Meal: Lunch at Trattoria Locanda al Raspo de Ua in Burano, Venice, Italy (Sept. 5, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) half liter of Prosecco – €4.50
    (2) steamed mussels with lemon
    (3) Frutti di mare pizza

Trattoria Locanda Al Raspo de Ua, Burano, Venice, Italy

  • Price: $$ – the total bill was right around €25, and we left about €2-3 for the tip.
  • Overall thoughts: A great choice for lunch in Burano.  It was very crowded, but we were able to sit right away and didn’t have to wait long for our food.  The mussels were delicious (especially with extra lemon juice squeezed on top) and the seafood pizza was very unique, but tasty!  I would definitely consider revisiting on another trip to Burano.

Meal: Snacks in Venice (Sept. 4 & 5, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) gelato
    (2) panini
    (3) cappucino

Snacks in Venice, Italy

  • Price: $ 
  • Overall thoughts: the gelato was creamy and rich everywhere, and the flavors were inventive compared to the standard ice cream shops in the US.  I’d maybe skip the sandwiches, which were just okay (were sold just off of Piazza San Marco and were €4 each).  The cappuccino stop provided a quick rest during the busy day, and it’s something we should have made time for more than just once!

Meal: Dinner at Alle Testiere (Sept. 5, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) mixed seafood appetizer from the Adriatic Sea (with lobster, cuttlefish, shrimp, octopus, spider crab, anchovy, baby calamari, and a toasted baguette topped with a mixture of cod, milk, vegetable oil and garlic) – €18
    (2) Sea bream fillets with fine herbs and citrus sauce – €25
    (3) Prawns with coriander, ginger, and lime sauce (it was also served with polenta, which was a pleasant surprise!) – €25
    (4) bottle of chardonnay – €24

    Alle Testiere, Venice, Italy

  • Price: $$$$ – the bill came to €95 for one shared appetizer, two entrees (€25 each), a bottle of wine, and a bottle of water. 
  • Overall thoughts: absolutely fantastic.  This is the type of restaurant I wish we were always able to find.  We were extremely lucky – we were looking for a different place and stumbled upon Alle Testiere around 10:00pm.  Unfortunately, they had a limited menu, but they agreed to sit us at the one free table.  We later found out that they have two seatings for dinner and we were about 45 minutes late for the second one. Even with the limited menu (no pasta), the meal exceeded our expectations.  The appetizer started a continuing trend of ordering mixed appetizers featuring specials from the area (it also began my love for cuttlefish).  A great find, and a restaurant I will track down again the next time I’m in Venice.

Meal: Breakfast at Al Doge Beato Hotel (Sept. 6, 2009)

  • Included: croissants, rolls, butter, jam, nutella, juice, and tea
  • Overall thoughts: it was great to have the breakfast included in the hotel.  We missed it our first morning because we were out and about so early.  It was much better than paying €5+ for a smaller croissant and a bottle of juice! 

Breakfast in Venice

 Meal: Lunch at Hostaria Galileo (Sept. 6, 2009)

What we ordered:
(1) half liter of house white wine – €8
(2) tagliatelle with shrimp and zucchini – about €12
(3) fried calamari – about €12

Hostaria Galieo, Venice, Italy

  • Price: $$ – a bit expensive for small portions, but it wasn’t bad.
  • Overall thoughts: the food was delicious and the are was tucked away from the main tourist route.  

Meal: Dinner at Hotel Principe (Sept. 6, 2009) – the engagement dinner!

  • What we ordered:
    (1) bottle of Prosecco
    (2) sliced raw fish seasoned with oil and Sicilian citrus fruits
    (3) pappardelle du funghi porcini (pappardelle with porcini mushrooms)
    (4) riccioli di grano duro con asparagi di bassano capesante nostrane (homemade pasta with scallops and asparagus) 
    (5) tortino caldo al cioccolato con crema alla vaniglia (warm chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream)

Hotel Principe, Venice, Italy

  • Price: $$-$$$: I didn’t write down pricing information, but made some guesses in my notes (maybe around €15 for the appetizer and each entree).  
  • Overall thoughts: Another great view, if you aren’t trying to stay away from restaurants on the Grand Canal.  I think the raw fish appetizer was salmon, and it was fresh and tart (from the citrus).  It satisfied my “sushi craving” during the Italy portion of our trip!  The homemade pastas surpassed my expectations and the unusual combinations (scallops and asparagus!) played with our tastebuds.  It was a great way to celebrate our engagement!

Our next trip to Venice will feature similar foods (fresh seafood being the main objective), but more attention will be paid to choosing the restaurants.  I wish I had a better memory of my thoughts on the food, but luckily my journal provided some insight and brought me back to Venice for a few moments.  My stomach cannot wait to get back to Venice to experience some of the best seafood and pastas that it has ever tasted!