Sagrada Família: Don’t Miss the Interior!

Sagrada Família, the Barcelona church still undergoing construction according to the ambitious vision of Catalan architect Antonio Gaudí, is by far the top sight in Barcelona.  The exterior is unique and interesting, but is no match for the interior.  Don’t be intimidated by the long lines (which move quick) or the €13 admission.  The time and money investment to see one of the most dramatic examples of modern architecture is a very worthwhile investment.

Looking up at the elaborate ceiling in the Sagrada Família’s nave

 Believe it or not, we were somewhat underwhelmed with the exterior of the building.  The Nativity Facade, which was the only section of the church completed while Gaudí was alive, is very cluttered and starting to show it’s age.  The newly completed Passion Facade seems much cleaner, and completed in what appears to be a much more modern style (which appealed to us).  The size of the building was not as impressive as we had expected, but I have no doubt that after completion, when capped by the 558-foot Jesus Christ tower, the size of the building will be spectacular.  Right now, the tallest tower is 394 feet.

After walking through the door at the Passion Facade we knew we were entering somewhere special.  Gaudí used nature to inspire his architecture, which is clear in Sagrada Família.  The columns used to support the building show a strong resemblance to tree trunks.  They are not straight pillars, as you would see in a more traditional church, but curvy.  Looking straight-up at the 148-ft high ceiling (about the same height at St. Peter’s in Rome), there are gorgeous patterns, as depicted in the picture of the nave above and like at ceiling installation Greenwich.

Continue reading

Flying Discount Air Carrier Vueling in Europe

Traveling within Europe via air can be very affordable, often even cheaper than train travel.  On our recent trip to Spain and Portugal, we travelled between Lisbon and Barcelona on Vueling Airlines, Spain’s leading discount air carrier.  Our basic fare was much cheaper on Vueling than other carriers, at €18 per person.  Like all European discount carriers, the actual price we paid was significantly higher due to extra fees.  After €4 per person to book our seats ahead of time, €12 per suitcase (x2), a €10 credit card fee and €44 in taxes, we ended-up paying €61 per person for the flight.  Although it’s always difficult to stomach unadvertised fees, our total cost for the flight was far less than other options, and very affordable in comparison to flights of similar lengths in the United States.

Although air travel in Europe is fast and can be cheap, it’s not always necessarily the most convenient.  Lisbon is one of the few European cities with an airport near the city center, and even they are looking at options at relocating the airport to a less populated area.  The decentralized location of airports means extra time and money spent on taxi or transit to get to and from the airport.  Delays can also be more frequent than those experienced in the United States due to the high airspace congestion and airplane utilization.  In Lisbon, we weathered a 2 hour delay due to mechanical issues on our intended aircraft.  Finally, Europe enforces strict limits on luggage weight, including carry-ons.  This can make travel difficult for those who don’t pack lightly.

Continue reading

Portuguese Fado in Lisbon

FadoA popular evening past time in Portugal is to enjoy local cuisine with the national folk music, called Fado.  We included a night of Fado on the trip itinerary we lined-out before we left.  At that time, however, we had know idea that the experience would turn-out to be a trip highlight.

Our original plan was to see Fado at a restaurant that specializes in performances.  Guidebooks include a list of restaurants with Fado every night, mostly in the Chiado and Alfama neighborhoods.  However, at the recommendation of our hotelier, we decided to go to a traditional Portuguese restaurant, called Guarda-Mor, that focuses on serving good food, but brings in Fado singers once per week as a special treat to their customers.  We really lucked-out with the recommendation.  Our dinner was one of the best meals of the trip and  experienced an absolutely captivating Fado performance. Continue reading

Portugese Castles, Both Old & New, in Sintra

Back in August, we published a post on planning a possible day trip to Sintra, Portugal.  Sintra is a short 35 minute train ride from Lisbon’s central Rossio station an offers sightseeing opportunities at a variety of castles within a short distance from the town center.  After comparing the attractions in Sintra to alternative activities in Lisbon, we decided to make the day trip.  In fact, we were so excited about Sintra that we went there the day of our arrival from the United States, despite our jet lag.  Our visit did not disappoint, although we left feeling we only scratched the surface of the city’s sightseeing opportunities.  Our fatigue led to a rather rushed tour of the Pena Palace (described below) and a longer than expected lunch pushed the caves at Quinta de Regaleria and the gardens at Monserratte out of our schedule.  We still thought the journey was well worth the effort.  Sintra offers very unique landscapes and an appreciation for Portuguese royals that is very distinct from experiences in Lisbon.

The train station in Sintra is about a ten-minute walk from the town center.  The walk provides some excellent views of the National Palace (as seen in the picture above).  We did a very thorough tour of the palace, using the provided audio guides.  Highlights included the Stag Room with it’s dramatically-adorned ceiling and Atlantic views, and an ivory pagoda on display in the Chinese Room.  Unfortunately, we needed to work a little bit to avoid a huge tour group by backtracking.  We were unable to avoid large crowds in the kitchens directly underneath the palace chimneys.

Continue reading

Lisboa Card: Worth the money?

Lisboa CardSightseeing in Europe can get expensive very quickly.  We try and figure-out where we want to go before leaving for our trip and research potential ways to save money.  Before our most recent trip, we discovered the Lisboa Card, offered by the local tourism office, which includes free admission to many sights, discounts to others, and free access to Lisbon’s fairly extensive transportation network (trains, subways, buses, trolleys).  

Our preliminary calculations before the trip suggested the card would be about a wash, but perhaps pay-out with its convenience (instead of worrying about having money on hand to pay for transportation).  Our prediction was about right.  Here’s how we recouped our €39 72-hour card cost (savings are per person as of September 2012):

Continue reading