City Overview: Granada, Spain

City.  Granada, Spain

When?  Tuesday, September 11 – Friday, September 14 (3 nights).  I actually think the three nights was plenty – they were very busy days, but we did pretty much everything we wanted to, including a day trip (about 7 hours total) to Nerja.  

Where? We stayed at the Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol hotel in a room with a private terrace (we were in La Torre, which was on the second and highest floor with a commanding view of Granada).  The hotel was located a quick 10-15 minute walk away from the Alhambra (pictured above), which was super convenient for us since we visited twice.  Our room was 140 euros and breakfast was an additional 8 euros per person, but it was a great breakfast and definitely worth it.

Transportation.  We walked a lot in Granada.  As I mentioned above, our hotel was conveniently located close to the Alhambra, so there was no need to take public transportation up to the entrance.  Also, the main area of Granada (near the cathedral and Royal Chapel) was a downhill walk from the hotel and was not too steep to walk up.  We did use the bus for two trips: the minibus to the caves of Sacromonte and the Alsa bus on our trip to Nerja.   

Food.  We had some fantastic food in Granada, including a few free tapas!  Our last night in Granada we went to Calle Navas, which is just off of Plaza del Carmen (and close to the Cathedral and not far from Plaza Nueva – really, everything in that area is very walkable).  There were so many tapas bars concentrated on this one street, and it was bustling until late in the night.  We had a mix of tapas – marinated tomatoes, jámon iberico, fried baby squid, and grilled cuttlefish, and they were all delicious!  We were especially impressed with the flavor and freshness of the tomatoes and the lemony cuttlefish grilled to perfection.  Calle Nueva was also a great place for people watching.  I just wish we had tried out the area before our last night!

Day Trips.  We took a partial day trip to Nerja, on the southern coast of Spain.  We rode the Alsa bus both ways, which took around 2 hours and was comfortable (our bus on the way there even had wifi!).

Attractions.  There were so many things to do in Granada.  The best site was definitely the Alhambra, which I’ll talk about in more detail later, but we also enjoyed other sites like the San Nicolás Viewpoint (with a great view of the Alhambra) and the Cave Museum of Sacromonte (pictured below).  The caves took a bit of time to get to (including a hike up a steep hill), but it was really interesting to see the caves set up as if they were currently being used as houses, kitchens, stables, and rooms to make crafts.  We also decided to relax a bit and tried out the Arab Baths at Hammam Al Ándalus.  For 23 euros each, we had 90 minutes to relax in the warm pool, hot pool, cold pool, and steam room.  Only 30 people are allowed during each time slot (every 2 hours, 10:00-24:00), so it’s not super crowded.  It was nice to get out of the heat of the day and do something we normally wouldn’t do.  There is also a location in Sevilla!

Language Barrier.  Similar to Sevilla – I was able to use some Spanish when I could, but everyone spoke English very well.  

Cost.  Aside from our first lunch in Granada (after checking in it was almost 16:00, so we had limited options and went to the fancy restaurant nearby), our food was very reasonable.

Advice.  Book ahead for the Alhambra!  I will be writing more detailed posts about our two visits, but I would highly suggest a night visit for less crowds and a more magical experience.  We also enjoyed our day trip (we had a lot more time), but it would have been too hot and too crowded had we not chosen one of the first few time slots. 

Closing comments.  Andalucía is a beautiful part of Spain and should not be missed!  We absolutely loved Granada and Sevilla and would love to visit the area again.  Even though Granada is a large city, it felt personal and very cultural. 

London: The Extremely Detailed Itinerary

Our London trip is fast-approaching, and while I’m not stressing over learning a new language or wondering what the weather will be like (I know it will be freezing!), I am completely overwhelmed by all of the must-see sites and attractions that London and the surrounding area has to offer.  For a first timer, a 7-night trip seemed more than long enough, until I realized that even with 7 nights, there is no way we could fit in everything (and do it well).  So, we decided to map out a detailed, tentative itinerary (to be changed while we’re there, I am sure!).  As a warning, this post is going to be lengthy and wordy, but hopefully it will help show how we came up with our plans. 

Ryan has been to London twice before, and so he has seen many of the major sites.  That being said, most of them are worth visiting again, so we really aren’t taking into account what he’s already seen.  I made a list of the top 10 sites we wanted to visit, as well as additional attractions and things to do.  The list is no where near exhaustive, but we had to start out with something manageable.  We tried to rank the sites in order of priority, but changed our mind as we were planning out which thing to do or see on each day. 

Here are the sites we considered: Tower of London*, British Museum*, British Library, St. Paul’s Cathedral*, Westminster Abbey*, London Eye*, Churchill War Rooms and Museum*, Tate Modern, Parliament*, and National Gallery*.

Westminster Abbey and other sites in London.

Here are the other attractions, areas, things we wanted to fit in (including day trips): Day trip to Bath and possibly Stonehenge, day trip to Brussels*, Hampton Court Palace, Kew Gardens, Windsor, Covent Garden*, Portobello market* (Notting Hill – Saturdays), a musical* (Les Mis is on the top of our list), Christmas Market(s)*, outdoor ice skating*, Greenwich*, the Docklands*, Harrod’s*, walks* (through the Westminster area, West End area, Southbank area), Hyde Park*. Continue reading

Experiencing Flamenco in Sevilla

After choosing Sevilla as a destination city for our trip, we knew that a Flamenco show was on the top of our “things to do” list.  In fact, it’s really the only thing I knew about Sevilla prior to planning our trip, and I was really looking forward to an entertaining show.  

We looked into different options before our trip – a show with dinner, a show without dinner, an impromptu show at a local bar.  After looking through reviews on Trip Advisor and recommendations in the Rick Steves’ Spain guidebook, we decided that Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus was the show for us.  The show lasts one hour and is held in an open air courtyard (shown to the right, from here) accommodating 90 seats.  It is only the show – no dinner or drinks – so you are able to completely enjoy the music and dancing.   Continue reading

City Overview: Sevilla, Spain

City.  Sevilla, Spain

When?  Sunday, September 9 – Tuesday, September 11 (2 nights).  We did a lot in these two days, but, as always (it seems) I wish we had been able to stay longer.  We really enjoyed the tapas scene in Sevilla and another night would have meant two more meals!  We were in Sevilla on a Sunday and Monday night, and found out that the bullfights were on Thursdays, although they used to be on Sundays.  We considered going to a bullfight, but after reading that they are so gory and violent that many Americans have got up and left, we decided against it.  However, we went to the bullfighting arena for a tour and we now have an understanding of what takes place during a bullfight, and we plan to attend one the next time in Spain!  This means we will have to be sure to be in Sevilla (if that’s where we will attend one) on a day that actually has a fight.   Continue reading

Writing Away: The Basics

Ryan and I celebrated our first wedding anniversary on October 8!  I made sure he was informed that the first anniversary is traditionally the paper anniversary, so in addition to other gifts, we made sure to get each other a paper gift.  His gift to me was a book on travel journaling called Writing Away, by Lavinia Spalding.  I really enjoy keeping a journal while traveling, so this was a perfect gift!  Since we are heading to London in about three weeks, I wanted to begin reading this book right away.  We’ve read the introduction and chapters 1-4 (I read aloud when we are in the car together) and I want to share some of the information we’ve gained thus far.

Chapter 1: Let the Writing Begin

The first chapter is all about the importance of finding the right journal.  To say I haven’t given much thought to this would be a lie.  I’m very particular about the type of journal I want to use on my trips – medium-sized, hard cover, lined paper, pretty design/cover, thin.  Before our honeymoon I found the perfect journals!  They are Piddix brand, and feature different European cities on the front and back covers.  The pages are lined, there’s a fabric bookmark, and it’s kept closed by an elastic band that goes around the front cover.  I loved it so much that ever since then, I’ve searched for more.  I’ve successfully found about 6 additional European cities.  Yes!  Oh, except both Ryan and I are now intrigued by what Spalding has said in the very first chapter of our book.  While she doesn’t insist that you dump your journals and adopt her preferences, there’s something about blank pages that are appealing and freeing.  This is one thing we may look for in our next journal (which, depending on whether or not we decide to ditch the journals I’ve already purchased, may be in 6 years).  Some of her other criteria?  Non-white pages, pages without designs or prompts, and a journal that lies flat. 

Chapter 2: It’s the Intention That Matters

Chapter 2 focuses on motivations, and Spalding mentions that if you have a motivation to journal, you are more likely to follow through and finish the journal.  This seems obvious, but just writing down the motivation will have a profound effect.  My motivations – keeping an accurate account so that: when I go back and read, I can relive the experience; I can write honest and detailed reviews for hotels, restaurants, and attractions; I can provide recommendations of things to do with confidence – no clouded memories and any need-to-know information that is best obtained through experience (how long does it really take to walk from point A to point B?).  

Spalding has a section at the end of each chapter called “Inspiration,” which gives tips and ideas relating to the subject discussed in the chapter.  I really liked a couple of them in this chapter.  One was “Fact or Fiction”: list your destinations and write down any preconceived notions you have of them.  Make sure to leave room for the reality, so you can compare your expectations with your actual experience.  The other was “At First Sight”: write down your first impressions of a place with a few sentences.  I already try to do the latter, but I don’t always get around to writing down my preconceived notions or expectations for each destination. 

Chapter 3: Write Two Pages and Call Me in the Morning

This chapter is all about keeping a journaling schedule and sticking to it.  When your trip is jam-packed full of activities, it’s definitely hard to find the time to sit and journal.  Spalding suggests setting an attainable goal – maybe it’s 5 minutes a day, or 15 minutes every other day.  This past trip I tried to spend some time with my journal every day – either on the train between cities, or when we were back at the hotel between a full day and dinner (while drinking wine, and preferably sitting on a terrace with a view – although this wasn’t always possible).  Since the schedule doesn’t necessarily need to be the same time every day, this has worked well for me.  We naturally have a break/hotel time each day, so I spend some of that time catching up.  The long train rides are great for journaling – no need to miss any exploring since you are already stuck on the train. 

Spalding states that “procrastination is murder on a travel journal” and I agree!  It is so easy to procrastinate, but then the adventures and experiences keep piling up, and pretty soon you find yourself way behind.  I have been getting better and better about keeping up with my journaling, but here I am a month and a half back from Spain and I still have two and a half days to write about.  By now I’ve lost a lot of the details (but I do keep quick notes in a smaller notebook – for example, where and what we ate) and will likely rush through those last days.  

Chapter 4: Travel is Stranger Than Fiction

In this chapter, Spalding encourages you to write using senses other than just sight.  Thinking about my journals, sight takes up the vast majority, with taste and then smell taking up a very small portion (but only when writing about food).  She recommends closing your eyes to take in the sounds and smells of a place, or touch different things and describe how they feel.  I’m definitely going to focus on this more in London.  I think it will bring an interesting element to my journal, and will help me relive the great experiences.  I already have pictures to help remember what things look like, so it makes complete sense to me to work on including smells, tastes, sounds, and the feel of buildings or objects. 

The other part of this chapter discusses people: talk and interact with people or eavesdrop on conversations to pick up interesting information.  I already eavesdrop because I find it interesting to learn about other people and it gives me an excuse to learn without having to talk to strangers!  That being said, in a few weeks we will be in London where English is spoken, so my goal will be to try to connect with the locals a bit more! 

Since I still have space in my current journal, I won’t be out looking for a new one for London.  However, I will more clearly define my intentions, which will hopefully help motivate me to stay on top of the journaling and schedule time to sit and journal each day.  Since we won’t have as much train time in London, I’ll have to be a bit more creative.  I will also make a conscious effort to write about more than what I see – smells of the city, the taste of the food, the feel of the rain and cold weather (I hope it’s not too bad!), and the sounds of the people.  I’m looking forward to finishing this book so we can apply the advice to make our journaling better (and maybe even our blog!).