7 London Experiences for a Return Visit

Posted on January 21, 2013 by Ryan

I’ve now been to London 3 times: first with a middle school group, next with my mother, and just recently with my wife. Each trip offered something new and enjoyable, and London, more than anywhere I’ve visited, is a place to return again and again. In reflecting on this last trip, I thought of a list of seven highlights for a return visit (in no particular order):

1. The Strand

The walk along The Strand and Fleet Street from Trafalgar Square up Ludgate Hill to St. Paul’s Cathedral goes through my favorite part of London. It follows a historic route used in the Middle Ages to connect the City of London with Westminster. Along the way, it’s a thrill to peek into Temple Inns of Court (all lawyers must live here during their internship), admire the wedding cake steeple at St. Bride’s Church, and peek into the historic taverns that still line the road. To really appreciate this part of London, it’s also rewarding to wander the narrow lanes and alleys. On this last visit, we used Rick Steves’ guided walk through this area (link to map and audioguide). On previous trips, I’d seen this part of London, but reading about the historic roots of the neighborhood and venturing off the main drag really made this walk a memorable experience and ultimately a trip highlight.

2. Tower of London

The Tower of London is on nearly everyone’s itinerary on a short trip to London, and it should stay on itineraries for return trips. There is a lot to see at the Tower, and even after three visits, I still haven’t seen it all. This last visit was probably the most rewarding, because of the planning we did ahead of time to avoid crowds. We benefited from visiting London in the off-season (late November), but even then, we went out of our way to arrive at the Tower exactly at opening time on its first early day of the week (9am on Tuesday). We literally had the crown jewels to ourselves and circled the conveyor belts at least five times. It was also refreshing to find that our Yeoman’s tour was completely different than the one I went on during my last visit. Not only did we visit different sites, but the Yeoman had completely different stories to share and his own unique personality.

3. Pub Grub

For those who are returning to London after a long hiatus (my hiatus was 9 years, 2003-2012), the food scene in London has changed—and for the better (although my opinion may be influenced by the fact that I am now of drinking age). Many pubs now strive to serve innovative and quality cuisine along with great English beer. Meanwhile, I’ve also became more adventurous. In addition to fish & chips (a standard go-to for Americans at London pubs), I sampled roasts, meat pies, and burgers. One pub we visited even offered a quality pâté for an appetizer. After returning from previous trips, I always had to qualify my adoration for London with a disclaimer that the cuisine is lacking. Now, I will actually look forward to eating in London, and am actually already missing pub grub!

4. London Docklands

On previous trips to London, I’ve always confined my sightseeing within Zone 1 of the London Underground. However, to see the real modern-day London, visitors need to travel further east, to the London Docklands. The best time to visit during the work week, when the 5 square blocks surrounding the Canary Wharf Underground Station are a hubbub of activity. We had a fun time wandering through the underground shopping mall and watching London’s workforce (which is much better dressed than America’s, save DC and New York) rushing from work to lunch. The futuristic self-driven Docklands Light Rail (DLR) connects the Canary Wharf area with Greenwich to the south and the new olympic facilities to the north. Visiting the Docklands is probably not a priority for first time visitors with limited time in London, but for a return visit, it is interesting to see this new part of the city.

5. Holiday Season

My past two trips to London occurred during summer, with plenty of large crowds and hot weather. This trip, we visited in Late November, at the beginning of the holiday season in London. In planning our trip, we were excited to see that decorations would be up and several Christmas markets running. Our expectations on London’s holiday cheer were more than surpassed. The decorations at Covent Garden (above) and beautiful Christmas lights on Regent Street were spectacular. A favorite was the Southbank Christmas Market, a Bavarian-style Christmas market with fun handicrafts, German food, and hot chocolate! More details can be found in Kristin’s post on Christmas in London. We were lucky with the weather (cold, but little precipitation), but I found myself enjoying winter in London much more than the summer. We are already planning on returning to London at the same time on our next trip! For those who have only experienced London in the summer, I certainly recommend trying a visit during the holidays.

6. Churchill War Rooms

I first visited the Churchill War Rooms on my second trip to London. As a World War II buff, getting a glimpse of the UK headquarters during the war is fascinating and I didn’t mind sharing the experience again with my wife on our recent trip. I was excited to find that since my second visit, there is also now a Churchill Museum co-located with the War Rooms (since 2005). The museum provides a very comprehensive overview of the life of Winston Churchill. We found the material so fascinating that we spent over an hour exploring the audiovisual experiences. If it weren’t for our tired feet, we could have stayed much longer! If your last visit to the War Rooms occurred prior to 2005, or if you just ran out of time exploring the museum, it’s certainly worth a visit on a return trip to London.

7. Parliament

Government and politics have always been an interest of mine, and unfortunately my trips to London and my only trip to Washington D.C. occurred during legislative recesses. I was thrilled when I realized it was a possibility to see the UK Parliament in action on this last trip. Given that it was off-season and a weekday, the lines to gain admission were very reasonable, although it isn’t hard to imagine that they could quickly become unmanageable with larger crowds. After clearing security and getting a close-up view of Big Ben, we saw historic Westminster Hall (picture above). We then climbed a maze of stairs to the House of Commons viewing gallery, and listened to a committee debate (more details in my specific post on this subject). In future trips, I want to try and see the House of Lords and attend when it is in full session. Even in committee, however, I found it fascinating.

It’s remarkable how much London has to offer visitors. Not only is there so much to see that there are new places to visit each trip, but the places visited in past trips are so interesting that they warrant a revisit. I’ve found each sequential trip to London more rewarding and can’t wait to visit again (in fact, we both wish we could find a way to live there)!

7 London Experiences for a First-Time Visit

Posted on January 18, 2013 by Kristin

Most of these probably won’t come as a surprise (we’ve even written about some of them extensively), but I’ve compiled my list of the top 7 things to do and see in London for a first-time visit. It wasn’t easy and I’m sure not everyone would agree with all of the items, but here is what I would recommend for a first trip to London:

1. Tower of London

It may be expensive and crowded, but the Tower of London is worth a few hours of your time. The Crown Jewels are a must-see and do be sure to take a (free!) tour with one of the Yeoman Warders (Beefeaters). The tours are popular and may be large, but our Yeoman Warder had a booming voice and was full of stories and jokes about the Tower of London. Other than that, see anything that sounds interesting – we visited the White Tower (it houses the Royal Armories’ collections), walked a portion of the wall surrounding the Tower of London, and spent some time looking at torture devices in the Lower Wakefield Tower. Don’t forget: depending on when (time of year) you’re visiting, you may be able to take advantage of the 2-for-1 tickets – we only paid £20.90 for the two of us.

2. British Museum

An extensive collection of artifacts spanning human civilization, the British Museum is a perfect escape from a dreary London day (and it’s free!). For a quick trip, I recommend following Rick Steves’ guide (found in his London book or here, where you can download an audio version). He goes through the essentials – Egypt, Assyria, and Greece – and provides information about the key items in each section. With more time, explore exhibits focusing on cultures from all over the world: Ancient and Imperial China, Ancient Rome, Incas, and Aztecs, to name a few. In addition to the permanent exhibits, the museum has temporary exhibitions that may be worth a visit (flowers and plants from North America were being featured while we were there).

3. Westminster Abbey and St. Paul’s Cathedral

The entrance fee (£18) to Westminster Abbey includes an audioguide with 20 listening points throughout the interior. As you walk in through the north transept, you have a view of the breathtaking nave – the ornate vaulted ceiling was the show-stealer of Westminster Abbey. It was very impressive and something that has to be seen in person (the pictures don’t do it justice). A substantial portion of the tour took us to various tombs, including that of Queen Elizabeth I and Kind Edward the Confessor (he built the original Westminster Abbey). We finished our visit outside in the Cloisters, and then continued to the Little Cloister and College Garden (pictured above – according to Rick Steves it is only open Tuesday-Thursday).

The entrance fee (£15) to St. Paul’s Cathedral also includes a free audioguide and access to both the dome and the crypt. We started out in the nave, made our way around the spacious church, and then started up the stairs leading to the dome. If you are physically able, there are about 500 or so stairs that lead up to the top of the dome and I highly recommend the trip. The first level (about 250 steps up) brings you to a walkway around the inside of the dome, overlooking the church interior. The second and third stops are outside of the dome, with sweeping (and windy) views of London. We finished our visit down in the crypt. We started in a room with the Oculus, 270° film that shows the history of St. Paul’s Cathedral, and finished by admiring the numerous tombs of famous people. A visit to St. Paul’s Cathedral is definitely worth 1.5 hours during your trip!

4. Borough Market and Portobello Market

I wrote about the markets in more detail here, but they were so enjoyable that they deserve another mention. Even if you don’t plan to purchase any souvenirs, bring your appetite and plan to have lunch or a snack while browsing the offerings. Remember to visit Borough Market on Thursday-Saturday and Portobello Market on a Saturday to enjoy the full-blown markets.

5. Indian Food

Ryan wrote about the two Indian restaurants we tried in London and I think it’s safe to say I wouldn’t have minded trying more. I wasn’t familiar with the vegetarian dishes found in southern India, so I welcomed the chance to taste something new (the picture to the right shows my appetizer from the dinner – vegetable masala idli: steamed rice and lentils with mixed vegetables) . Next time I visit, I plan to expand my palate even more – either by choosing more adventurous dishes from the menu or trying a new cuisine (such as Pakistani). Don’t miss a spicy meal in the land known for bland food!

6. Afternoon Tea

Whether it’s cream tea (just tea and scones) or a full-blown afternoon tea (tea, scones, pastries, sandwiches, and champagne, if you wish), an afternoon tea break to unwind is a must! Not only is it fun to take part in an English tradition, but sitting down to tea is a great break from walking around and serves as a snack to tide you over until dinner. The picture on the left is from our cream tea at The Wolseley. Some of the well-known tea rooms include those at The Ritz, Fortnum & Mason, and Claridge’s, but tea rooms can be found almost anywhere (including department stores and book stores), ranging in prices.

7. See a show

Along with Broadway shows in New York, musicals in London are another must-see. Known for it’s great theater district, London has several famous shows to choose from each night. We planned to see Les Misérables and purchased tickets ahead of time, but for another trip I would consider getting half-price tickets the day of the show. Ryan provided information for anyone considering a show (whether you choose to book ahead or try out the half-price tickets, his post will be helpful). Plan a fancy night out, with a pre-show drink and a late-night post-show dinner!

This list is a great start for a first visit to London. And the good news is, these can all be done on a short 3-4 day trip! The days will be long, but a sample plan could go as follows:

Day 1 – Borough Market (plan to eat lunch there!), Westminster Abbey (1.5-2 hours), and Indian food for dinner (if your first day is a full day, the morning will be clear for any other must-see sites on your list!)

Day 2 – The Tower of London (3-4 hours), lunch break, St. Paul’s Cathedral (1.5-2 hours), a show in London’s West End (with dinner either before or after)

Day 3 – Portobello Market in the morning (eat an early snack/lunch there), British Museum in the early afternoon (~2 hours), and an afternoon tea break to rejuvenate before the rest of the night

This plan leaves some time to wander around, stop at a pub or two, and add extra sites as you see fit. Enjoy your trip to London!

Navigating Heathrow’s Transit Options

Posted on January 10, 2013 by Ryan

Thankfully, it’s a nice and easy airport to use, thanks to the proper markings provided by sites like https://www.outdoor-surface-painting.co.uk/airport/. Connecting from airports to city centers is always an adventure (one of the reasons we like train travel in Europe, which always drops you in the center of town). Heathrow Airport is as far as any other European airport from the city, and its size can be quite intimidating, there’s a reason why they so so much advertisement with https://www.promo-advertising.co.uk/media-types/airport. However, it also offers several convenient transit options by train for getting to Central London, all enumerated below (ordered with most affordable first):

1. London Underground: £5.50 per person / 1 Hour

We took the London Underground from Heathrow to Central London on our trip. The Piccadilly Line leaves directly from the Heathrow Terminal, and stops at many locations in London proximal to hotels, including Green Park (our stop, near Buckingham Palace), Piccadilly Circus, Covent Garden, and King’s Cross. At £5.50 per person, the London Underground is likely the cheapest option, but it is also the slowest, taking approximately one hour. Train cars on the Piccadilly Line all contain a useful luggage area near the doors, but once inside Central London, the large crowds do make it a bit awkward. It’s much easier traveling from Heathrow, where the cars start empty. Starting in London towards Heathrow with a full car can be difficult. If you are not traveling light, the Underground might not be the best choice. We were lucky that our hotel was right off the Piccadilly Line, as the Underground stations aren’t necessarily built for easy transfers with luggage. If you do need to make a transfer, it may be worthwhile to look at the “Avoiding stairs tube guide” from the London Underground, which details which stations have elevators.

2. Heathrow Connect: £9.50 per person / 30 Minutes

There are also conventional rail connections to London, all of which run from the Heathrow Central station at Terminal 1 and Terminal 3 to Paddington Station in Northwest London (which may or may not be convenient for travelers). Paddington Station does offer direct connections to the Circle, Hammersmith, Bakerloo, and District Underground lines. For us, we figured the time for a connection to Green Park (our destination) via the Bakerloo line would take longer than the time savings by riding the Heathrow Connect (about 30 minutes). At £9.50 per person, Heathrow Connect is still a very affordable option for getting to the city. For travelers actually staying near Paddington Station, it’s an excellent option. Another plus is that the trains have significantly more room for luggage than the Piccadilly Line.

3. Heathrow Express: £20 per person / 15 Minutes

Heathrow Express is the fastest connection option, but also fairly pricey at £20 per person. In 15 minutes, it zips you from Heathrow to Paddington Station. Riders are treated to onboard TVs, modern furnishings, and lots of luggage space. At twice the price as Heathrow Connect, riders are asked to pay a premium to save 15 minutes of time.

Other Options

Heathrow also has bus and taxi options, both of which take approximately an hour to reach central London. Bus options range in price from £5 to £20 and you expect to pay £40 for a taxi ride.

Indian Food in Central London

Posted on January 7, 2013 by Ryan

Many of London’s Indian communities lie on the outskirts (particularly Southall near Heathrow Airport), but we found it very easy to find authentic Indian cuisine in Central London. We regularly eat Indian food in California, and I spent a month in India during a college summer, so we thought we knew what to expect—but our expectations were surpassed in both of our Indian dinners in every way (and at a fairly reasonable value given London’s high dining prices).

We were so excited about Indian food in London (or maybe it was we were so not excited about British food), that we ate Indian food our first night. After doing some background online research from our hotel, we decided to try Punjab near Covent Garden. Although the restaurant was extremely crowded upon arrival, the wait staff found us a table for 2 very quickly. Punjab specializes in North Indian food (which is mainly what is found in the United States). Their menu offered some of our favorites (all of which we ordered): samosas, chicken tikka masala, saag panner, and naan. Ironically, we enjoyed the food with a California Chardonnay, which paired excellently. Despite being in Central London, many of the other clientele were British Indians (which is a good sign). Our bill for £47 was probably one of our lowest in London.

Several nights later, we were again hungry for Indian. We decided to be more adventurous, and selected a South Indian restaurant in the West End called Woodlands, this time found using a Rick Steves’ guide. South Indian food is not nearly as common place in the United States (most of what they offered, Kristin had never tried). A common menu item in South Indian restaurants is thali, a complete meal including a variety of dishes, traditionally served on a platter with metal bowls (picture above). The Woodlands menu was completely vegetarian, and our thali included many tasty items, including the following:

Idli: A pillow of rice and lentils, often served with chutney (coconut and vegetable at the Woodlands). In India, idli is actually often served as a breakfast dish. It is a very traditional South Indian dish and can probably be found in many different restaurants in London. Our idli was served as an appetizer, before the actual thali platter. We found it extremely satisfying!
Bhajjia: Fried onion fritters, also served with chutney (coconut in our case). Bhajjia can also be made with carrots, peppers, and potatoes. We found that it was a decent substitute for the samosas we usually order at North Indian restaurants. The portion size at the Woodlands is just perfect, and the fried onions paired very well with our white wine.
Dosa: A crepe made with a batter of lentils and rice (again served with a selection of chutneys). It’s hard to find anything tastier than good dosa when cooked perfectly. In America, probably the closest thing you can find to it is a pancake. It is common to find a variety of dosa on a menu. Although we had potato dosa with our thali, Woodlands also offered spicy, mushroom, and onion.
Korma: When the thali tray comes out, one of the best things to do is mix up the various curries with the rice. One of our favorites to mix was korma, a mix of vegetables cooked in a creamy yogurt nut sauce. The korma at Woodlands was made with a cashew sauce and included green beans, sweet potatoes, and peas.

We enjoyed it all, except for the dessert, which was a little exotic, and again selected a white wine, which paired excellently with the food. We found ourselves sitting next to many locals and, although our bill was slightly higher, it was reasonable for London. All in all, the dinner was a very unique experience.

Our two Indian meals ended up being a trip highlight, and we look forward to finding delicious Indian food next time we visit London. Given the limited allure of British food, visitors should certainly try and include at least one Indian meal on their London itinerary.

Exploring London Through a Historical Lens

Posted on January 4, 2013 by Ryan

Although cultural experiences and scenery often shape my most memorable travel experiences, I find that in London, understanding the historical context of the places and buildings can turn typical sightseeing into an exciting adventure. During our past trip, I read Edward Rutherford’s London prior to our departure, but just a quick peek at the Wikipedia article can provide enough information to enrich your visit. In this post, I decided to provide a quick run-down of 3 important historical events, and explain how they have shaped today’s London:

December 25, 1066 – William the Conqueror Crowned King of England

In December of 1066, after invading England and defeating King Harold II, William the Conqueror of Normandy is crowned King of England in Westminster Abbey. The Gothic building so famous today was built by Henry III 100 years later, but the location of William’s coronation occurred in an abbey on the exact same spot. The arrival of William and Normans in London brought tremendous influences to architecture, government, and even language.

One of the best examples of Norman architecture during this time is the White Tower at the Tower of London. William commissioned the building of the White Tower in 1078. When built, the White Tower was one of the largest fortifications in the world. Inside, the unquestionable highlight is St. John’s Chapel, which feels like it hasn’t changed a bit since the 11th century (and it really hasn’t).

I like to imagine what Norman London was like between these 2 landmarks. The Strand, the road that starts near Trafalgar Square and heads towards St. Paul’s, was the historic thoroughfare connecting the principal City of London with Westminster. Remarkably, the area between Westminster and the City of London was rural until the 19th century. The City of London began just beyond the Fleet River (namesake for Fleet Street, which The Strand turns into), at Ludgate. The actual gate to the City of London no longer exists, but there is a plaque right near St. Martin Church (40 Ludgate Hill) to commemorate the original location of the gate.

September 2, 1666 – Great Fire of London

After the Norman conquest, as London continued to grow, wood was the predominant building material. The largest structure in the city was the original St. Paul’s, constructed on the same site as today’s church. At 585 feet in length, 100 feet in width, and with a spire of 489 feet, it was a marvel for its time. In 1666, the original St. Paul’s, along with homes of almost 90% of the cities inhabitants, were destroyed in the Great Fire of London. The fire originated from a bakery on the infamous Pudding Lane, now recognized with a grand monument.

Although devastating, the fire cleared the way for the grand stone structures and Baroque architecture found throughout London today. The city commissioned Christopher Wren to rebuild much of London, including St. Paul’s and 50 other churches. His characteristic style is very recognizable, such as in the spire of St. Bride’s church (pictured above). Almost all wooden buildings were replaced with stone as a precaution against future fires. Remarkably, much of the same street plan survives, due to complications with determining property ownership after the fire.

It’s difficult to comprehend the destruction of the fire when surveying Central London. The fire literally gutted the city from the Tower of London nearly to Westminster. Remarkably, there are only a few buildings in Central London that survived and provide an example of pre-1666 Tudor architecture (such as the Staple Inn and Prince Henry’s Room). It certainly takes a lot of imagination to imagine a whole city filled with similar buildings in the time of Shakespeare.

September 7, 1940 – The Blitz

Prior to 1940, the last foreign invasion of Britain occurred in 1719, when Spanish forces arrived in Scotland in retaliation for the destruction of a Spanish fleet by the Royal Navy. The Spaniards were quickly vanquished in the Battle of Glen Shiel. Thereafter, thanks to British military might, the isle remained safe from foreign brutality. With the advent of modern warfare, however, England became susceptible to aerial bombardment.

On September 7, 1940, the Nazi Luftwaffe bombed London to start what became to be known as The Blitz. Ordinary English citizens, spared from war in their homeland for so long, were now forced into a constant state of worry. London was bombed on 57 consecutive nights, and a total of 71 times over eight months. One million homes were damaged and nearly 20,000 Londoners lost their lives. A humbling graphic of the extreme extent of the bombing can be seen on Bomb Sight, where a web map depicts all the bombs dropped during The Blitz. Miraculously, most of London’s historic buildings survived the air raids, including St. Paul’s, which supported the morale of London citizens (the photo I took on our trip above reminds me of the famous “St. Paul’s Survives” photo published in London newspapers to inspire Londoners).

When visiting London sites, it’s impossible to miss references to The Blitz. Audioguides at St. Paul’s describe how volunteer fire brigades stayed on call to protect the church (and in fact might have saved it when they heroically removed an unexploded bomb from the roof). London at war can perhaps be most directly experienced at the Churchill War Rooms near Westminster. Visitors are allowed to visit the hideout of UK leadership during the war, including the map room where troop movement around the world was tracked.

Wrap-up

London is rich in history, and understanding important events can add a lot of meaning to a visit. One fun experience that ties it all together is the Oculus in the crypt at St. Paul’s, a panoramic audiovisual experience that recaps 1400 years of London history in four minutes. Otherwise, the best historical background can be obtained through online resources, audioguides, and books.

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Tag Archives: London 2012 Trip

7 London Experiences for a Return Visit

7 London Experiences for a First-Time Visit

Navigating Heathrow’s Transit Options

Indian Food in Central London

Exploring London Through a Historical Lens