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Experiencing Flamenco in Sevilla

After choosing Sevilla as a destination city for our trip, we knew that a Flamenco show was on the top of our “things to do” list.  In fact, it’s really the only thing I knew about Sevilla prior to planning our trip, and I was really looking forward to an entertaining show.  

We looked into different options before our trip – a show with dinner, a show without dinner, an impromptu show at a local bar.  After looking through reviews on Trip Advisor and recommendations in the Rick Steves’ Spain guidebook, we decided that Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus was the show for us.  The show lasts one hour and is held in an open air courtyard (shown to the right, from here) accommodating 90 seats.  It is only the show – no dinner or drinks – so you are able to completely enjoy the music and dancing.   Continue reading

Experiencing Sevilla’s Bullfighting Tradition Without the Violence

We’ve heard many reports from Americans returning from Spain that are appalled by the blood and violence of bullfighting.  To be honest, this didn’t turn me off.  In fact, I was originally excited that our stay in Sevilla, arguably the bullfighting capital of Spain, straddled a Sunday night when bullfights traditionally occur.  It was our misfortune that this fall’s Novillos (amateur bullfighters with young bulls) were rescheduled for the first time from Sunday to Thursday nights.  Still anxious to get a taste of this facet of Spanish culture, we decided to spend an hour at the museum at Sevilla’s Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza.  Bilingual tours are offered 3 times per hour for €6.50.

The tour offers a glimpse at the inside of Sevilla’s Plaza de Toros, which is still a great photo op, even when empty.

We thought the tour was well worth the time and investment, and certainly gave us a good introduction to bullfighting history, as well as some “basics”.  In fact, we both discussed that we would recommend a visit to the museum to even those planning on attending a bullfight.  The material covered in the tour would no doubt give spectators a better appreciation of the sport.

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City Overview: Sevilla, Spain

City.  Sevilla, Spain

When?  Sunday, September 9 – Tuesday, September 11 (2 nights).  We did a lot in these two days, but, as always (it seems) I wish we had been able to stay longer.  We really enjoyed the tapas scene in Sevilla and another night would have meant two more meals!  We were in Sevilla on a Sunday and Monday night, and found out that the bullfights were on Thursdays, although they used to be on Sundays.  We considered going to a bullfight, but after reading that they are so gory and violent that many Americans have got up and left, we decided against it.  However, we went to the bullfighting arena for a tour and we now have an understanding of what takes place during a bullfight, and we plan to attend one the next time in Spain!  This means we will have to be sure to be in Sevilla (if that’s where we will attend one) on a day that actually has a fight.   Continue reading

Writing Away: The Basics

Ryan and I celebrated our first wedding anniversary on October 8!  I made sure he was informed that the first anniversary is traditionally the paper anniversary, so in addition to other gifts, we made sure to get each other a paper gift.  His gift to me was a book on travel journaling called Writing Away, by Lavinia Spalding.  I really enjoy keeping a journal while traveling, so this was a perfect gift!  Since we are heading to London in about three weeks, I wanted to begin reading this book right away.  We’ve read the introduction and chapters 1-4 (I read aloud when we are in the car together) and I want to share some of the information we’ve gained thus far.

Chapter 1: Let the Writing Begin

The first chapter is all about the importance of finding the right journal.  To say I haven’t given much thought to this would be a lie.  I’m very particular about the type of journal I want to use on my trips – medium-sized, hard cover, lined paper, pretty design/cover, thin.  Before our honeymoon I found the perfect journals!  They are Piddix brand, and feature different European cities on the front and back covers.  The pages are lined, there’s a fabric bookmark, and it’s kept closed by an elastic band that goes around the front cover.  I loved it so much that ever since then, I’ve searched for more.  I’ve successfully found about 6 additional European cities.  Yes!  Oh, except both Ryan and I are now intrigued by what Spalding has said in the very first chapter of our book.  While she doesn’t insist that you dump your journals and adopt her preferences, there’s something about blank pages that are appealing and freeing.  This is one thing we may look for in our next journal (which, depending on whether or not we decide to ditch the journals I’ve already purchased, may be in 6 years).  Some of her other criteria?  Non-white pages, pages without designs or prompts, and a journal that lies flat. 

Chapter 2: It’s the Intention That Matters

Chapter 2 focuses on motivations, and Spalding mentions that if you have a motivation to journal, you are more likely to follow through and finish the journal.  This seems obvious, but just writing down the motivation will have a profound effect.  My motivations – keeping an accurate account so that: when I go back and read, I can relive the experience; I can write honest and detailed reviews for hotels, restaurants, and attractions; I can provide recommendations of things to do with confidence – no clouded memories and any need-to-know information that is best obtained through experience (how long does it really take to walk from point A to point B?).  

Spalding has a section at the end of each chapter called “Inspiration,” which gives tips and ideas relating to the subject discussed in the chapter.  I really liked a couple of them in this chapter.  One was “Fact or Fiction”: list your destinations and write down any preconceived notions you have of them.  Make sure to leave room for the reality, so you can compare your expectations with your actual experience.  The other was “At First Sight”: write down your first impressions of a place with a few sentences.  I already try to do the latter, but I don’t always get around to writing down my preconceived notions or expectations for each destination. 

Chapter 3: Write Two Pages and Call Me in the Morning

This chapter is all about keeping a journaling schedule and sticking to it.  When your trip is jam-packed full of activities, it’s definitely hard to find the time to sit and journal.  Spalding suggests setting an attainable goal – maybe it’s 5 minutes a day, or 15 minutes every other day.  This past trip I tried to spend some time with my journal every day – either on the train between cities, or when we were back at the hotel between a full day and dinner (while drinking wine, and preferably sitting on a terrace with a view – although this wasn’t always possible).  Since the schedule doesn’t necessarily need to be the same time every day, this has worked well for me.  We naturally have a break/hotel time each day, so I spend some of that time catching up.  The long train rides are great for journaling – no need to miss any exploring since you are already stuck on the train. 

Spalding states that “procrastination is murder on a travel journal” and I agree!  It is so easy to procrastinate, but then the adventures and experiences keep piling up, and pretty soon you find yourself way behind.  I have been getting better and better about keeping up with my journaling, but here I am a month and a half back from Spain and I still have two and a half days to write about.  By now I’ve lost a lot of the details (but I do keep quick notes in a smaller notebook – for example, where and what we ate) and will likely rush through those last days.  

Chapter 4: Travel is Stranger Than Fiction

In this chapter, Spalding encourages you to write using senses other than just sight.  Thinking about my journals, sight takes up the vast majority, with taste and then smell taking up a very small portion (but only when writing about food).  She recommends closing your eyes to take in the sounds and smells of a place, or touch different things and describe how they feel.  I’m definitely going to focus on this more in London.  I think it will bring an interesting element to my journal, and will help me relive the great experiences.  I already have pictures to help remember what things look like, so it makes complete sense to me to work on including smells, tastes, sounds, and the feel of buildings or objects. 

The other part of this chapter discusses people: talk and interact with people or eavesdrop on conversations to pick up interesting information.  I already eavesdrop because I find it interesting to learn about other people and it gives me an excuse to learn without having to talk to strangers!  That being said, in a few weeks we will be in London where English is spoken, so my goal will be to try to connect with the locals a bit more! 

Since I still have space in my current journal, I won’t be out looking for a new one for London.  However, I will more clearly define my intentions, which will hopefully help motivate me to stay on top of the journaling and schedule time to sit and journal each day.  Since we won’t have as much train time in London, I’ll have to be a bit more creative.  I will also make a conscious effort to write about more than what I see – smells of the city, the taste of the food, the feel of the rain and cold weather (I hope it’s not too bad!), and the sounds of the people.  I’m looking forward to finishing this book so we can apply the advice to make our journaling better (and maybe even our blog!).

Discovering Pintxos

Tapas, tapas, tapas. That’s what was on our minds as we landed in Barcelona and ventured out into our first night of food frenzy in Spain. And, our first taste of Spanish cuisine was several varieties of tapas, including some now-favorites patatas bravas and fried baby squid. However, as we wandered the streets of the gothic neighborhood after our first round of tapas, looking for something to keep the night going, we stumbled across a pintxos bar.

Pintxos (or pinchos) are more popular in the basque region of Spain, but are also served in northern Spain (we had them in both Barcelona and Madrid, but did not run into a pintxos bar in Sevilla nor Granada). They are a type of tapas, but have a slice of bread on the bottom, and a toothpick through the entire thing.  The picture to the right shows a pintxo with sausage and a pepper on top.  At the pintxos bar we frequented in Barcelona, we were given plates and then we were able to fill them up with whichever pintxos we wished to try. Ordering the drinks was through the “bartenders,” but all of the food was chosen by us, at our pace. It was similar to the sushi bars with the conveyer belt – take what you want, and pay at the end based on the number of plates. However, unlike at a sushi bar, the pintxos were paid for based on the number of toothpicks you had on your plate. Also, each pintxo was worth the same amount – a couple of euros a piece. Continue reading