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Experiencing Sevilla’s Bullfighting Tradition Without the Violence

We’ve heard many reports from Americans returning from Spain that are appalled by the blood and violence of bullfighting.  To be honest, this didn’t turn me off.  In fact, I was originally excited that our stay in Sevilla, arguably the bullfighting capital of Spain, straddled a Sunday night when bullfights traditionally occur.  It was our misfortune that this fall’s Novillos (amateur bullfighters with young bulls) were rescheduled for the first time from Sunday to Thursday nights.  Still anxious to get a taste of this facet of Spanish culture, we decided to spend an hour at the museum at Sevilla’s Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza.  Bilingual tours are offered 3 times per hour for €6.50.

The tour offers a glimpse at the inside of Sevilla’s Plaza de Toros, which is still a great photo op, even when empty.

We thought the tour was well worth the time and investment, and certainly gave us a good introduction to bullfighting history, as well as some “basics”.  In fact, we both discussed that we would recommend a visit to the museum to even those planning on attending a bullfight.  The material covered in the tour would no doubt give spectators a better appreciation of the sport.

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City Overview: Sevilla, Spain

City.  Sevilla, Spain

When?  Sunday, September 9 – Tuesday, September 11 (2 nights).  We did a lot in these two days, but, as always (it seems) I wish we had been able to stay longer.  We really enjoyed the tapas scene in Sevilla and another night would have meant two more meals!  We were in Sevilla on a Sunday and Monday night, and found out that the bullfights were on Thursdays, although they used to be on Sundays.  We considered going to a bullfight, but after reading that they are so gory and violent that many Americans have got up and left, we decided against it.  However, we went to the bullfighting arena for a tour and we now have an understanding of what takes place during a bullfight, and we plan to attend one the next time in Spain!  This means we will have to be sure to be in Sevilla (if that’s where we will attend one) on a day that actually has a fight.   Continue reading

Discovering Pintxos

Tapas, tapas, tapas. That’s what was on our minds as we landed in Barcelona and ventured out into our first night of food frenzy in Spain. And, our first taste of Spanish cuisine was several varieties of tapas, including some now-favorites patatas bravas and fried baby squid. However, as we wandered the streets of the gothic neighborhood after our first round of tapas, looking for something to keep the night going, we stumbled across a pintxos bar.

Pintxos (or pinchos) are more popular in the basque region of Spain, but are also served in northern Spain (we had them in both Barcelona and Madrid, but did not run into a pintxos bar in Sevilla nor Granada). They are a type of tapas, but have a slice of bread on the bottom, and a toothpick through the entire thing.  The picture to the right shows a pintxo with sausage and a pepper on top.  At the pintxos bar we frequented in Barcelona, we were given plates and then we were able to fill them up with whichever pintxos we wished to try. Ordering the drinks was through the “bartenders,” but all of the food was chosen by us, at our pace. It was similar to the sushi bars with the conveyer belt – take what you want, and pay at the end based on the number of plates. However, unlike at a sushi bar, the pintxos were paid for based on the number of toothpicks you had on your plate. Also, each pintxo was worth the same amount – a couple of euros a piece. Continue reading

Barcelona – Deciding to Relax

Barcelona ended up being our relaxation city for this trip. On our first trip together, Cinque Terre and Nice were the (relatively) relaxing stops, and on our honeymoon, Mykonos and Santorini allowed us to wind down and reflect after the wedding. We planned to be go-go-go this trip, but for several reasons, Barcelona was the perfect place for a little break.

Our hotel. It was located far away from the points of interest (listed out by us prior to our trip). To give an idea, it took us about 20-25 minutes to get to the closest metro stop and about 40-45 minutes to get to the start of La Rambla and the Gothic neighborhood. While it was far from that part of town, the W Barcelona is located right on the beach and it has a pool. We made a conscious decision to stay here so that we would be close to the beach and have access to a pool.

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Sagrada Família: Don’t Miss the Interior!

Sagrada Família, the Barcelona church still undergoing construction according to the ambitious vision of Catalan architect Antonio Gaudí, is by far the top sight in Barcelona.  The exterior is unique and interesting, but is no match for the interior.  Don’t be intimidated by the long lines (which move quick) or the €13 admission.  The time and money investment to see one of the most dramatic examples of modern architecture is a very worthwhile investment.

Looking up at the elaborate ceiling in the Sagrada Família’s nave

 Believe it or not, we were somewhat underwhelmed with the exterior of the building.  The Nativity Facade, which was the only section of the church completed while Gaudí was alive, is very cluttered and starting to show it’s age.  The newly completed Passion Facade seems much cleaner, and completed in what appears to be a much more modern style (which appealed to us).  The size of the building was not as impressive as we had expected, but I have no doubt that after completion, when capped by the 558-foot Jesus Christ tower, the size of the building will be spectacular.  Right now, the tallest tower is 394 feet.

After walking through the door at the Passion Facade we knew we were entering somewhere special.  Gaudí used nature to inspire his architecture, which is clear in Sagrada Família.  The columns used to support the building show a strong resemblance to tree trunks.  They are not straight pillars, as you would see in a more traditional church, but curvy.  Looking straight-up at the 148-ft high ceiling (about the same height at St. Peter’s in Rome), there are gorgeous patterns, as depicted in the picture of the nave above and like at ceiling installation Greenwich.

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