Sevilla impressed us all around, from its cathedral to the Barrio de Santa Cruz, but perhaps most at the Alcázar.  The Alcázar is a palace originally built for local Muslim rulers in the 10th century, but then rebuilt by a Christian king in the 14th century.  It is built in the “Mudéjar” style, which is Moorish style built for Christians.  It contains many of the same elements of Moorish architecture (e.g. the Alhambra), but you can also see images of living creatures, which are forbidden in Islamic architecture. 

The Alcázar’s Courtyard of the Maidens (Patio de las Doncellas) is a highlight of not only Sevilla, but all of Spain.

The entrance of the Alcázar looks like a medieval fortress, not that different from other old castles in Europe.  After entering the fortress walls, the first destination is the Admiral’s Room, where visitors can appreciate the space where Columbus, Magellan, and other explorers planned their journeys to the new world.  The real highlight is just beyond, at the Courtyard of the Maidens (pictured above).  The courtyard appears to be perfectly preserved, complete with a reflecting pool and ornate Mudéjar imagery adorning arches.  We took arguably our best photograph in Spain.  Unlike our daytime visit to the Alhambra in Granada, we were able to appreciate the space in nearly complete solitude.

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We’ve heard many reports from Americans returning from Spain that are appalled by the blood and violence of bullfighting.  To be honest, this didn’t turn me off.  In fact, I was originally excited that our stay in Sevilla, arguably the bullfighting capital of Spain, straddled a Sunday night when bullfights traditionally occur.  It was our misfortune that this fall’s Novillos (amateur bullfighters with young bulls) were rescheduled for the first time from Sunday to Thursday nights.  Still anxious to get a taste of this facet of Spanish culture, we decided to spend an hour at the museum at Sevilla’s Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza.  Bilingual tours are offered 3 times per hour for €6.50.

The tour offers a glimpse at the inside of Sevilla’s Plaza de Toros, which is still a great photo op, even when empty.

We thought the tour was well worth the time and investment, and certainly gave us a good introduction to bullfighting history, as well as some “basics”.  In fact, we both discussed that we would recommend a visit to the museum to even those planning on attending a bullfight.  The material covered in the tour would no doubt give spectators a better appreciation of the sport.

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