Food Run-Down: Cinque Terre, Italy 2009

Cinque Terre is a hidden gem on Italy’s Ligurian coast that is a must-see.  It’s becoming more and more popular, but the pedestrian-only towns with colorful buildings is still worth a trip.  If you try one dish in Cinque Terre, try the trofie al pesto – Cinque Terre is the birthplace of pesto and this dish highlights the flavors.  The homemade trofie pasta is mixed with pesto, green beans, and potatoes and goes great with a (cheap) glass of local wine.  If your visit is longer, take advantage of the fresh seafood, caught earlier that day.

Meal: Lunch at Taverno Del Capitano (Sept. 7, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) white wine (looks like a half liter)
    (2) mixed bruschetta (they all had tomatoes, and in addition we tried: capers, mozzarella, anchovies, and pesto)
    (3) pesto pizza
    (4) pesto lasagna

Taverna Del Capitano, Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $$-$$$ – I don’t remember the exact prices, but somewhere in the neighborhood of €10 for the main dishes. 
  • Overall thoughts: this restaurant is situated at the edge of the harbor, so it was a perfect spot to take in Vernazza on our first afternoon.  Our waiter was very friendly and was encouraging me to practice my Italian (or my Spanish, if I felt more comfortable), which was a great was to be welcomed to the city.  It was here that I really fell in love with bruschetta – the tomatoes were fresh, juicy, and full of flavor, and I loved their creative pairings with other local foods. 

Meal: Happy Hour at Ananasso Bar in Vernazza (Sept. 7-9, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) bellini
    (2) prosecco
    (3) white wine
    (4) snacks (various – they were free)

Ananasso Bar, Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $ – reasonably-priced drinks with a 5-star view.
  • Overall thoughts: one of my favorite spots from Cinque Terre – I still dream about this place!  We reflected on our day while enjoying a drink and watching the sun set into the water.  An added bonus was the snacks, which kept us from satisfied between lunch and dinner. 

Meal: Dinner at Trattoria Gianni Franzi (Sept. 7, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) anchovies cooked in lemon sauce
    (2) trofie al pesto (homemade Ligurian pasta with pesto)
    (3) spaghetti ai muscoli (spaghetti with mussels)
    (4) a bottle of the house white wine
    (5) local cheese (to finish the meal)

Trattoria Gianni Franzi, Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: again, I don’t remember and I didn’t write anything down.  I don’t think anything was too outrageous throughout Cinque Terre.  Probably a $$-$$$ price range.
  • Overall Thoughts: This meal was perfect as our first dinner.  We tried it all – anchovies, trofie al pesto, seafood pasta, wine from the region, and local cheeses.  The pesto was amazing – more Parmesan cheese than I typically taste, which was a huge plus for me.  I also loved the additions of potatoes and green beans, and of course the trofie pasta itself – once mixed up, the trofie is left with a thick coat of pesto.  This is the dish to try while in the Cinque Terre!

Meal: Lunch at Dau Tinola in Corniglia, Cinque Terre, Italy (Sept. 8, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) Prosciutto e melone – €11
    (2) Spaghetti ai frutti di mare – €11.50
    (3) Trenette al pesto – €11.50
    (4) Cinque Terre “La Polenza” vino (a bottle) – €17.50

Dau Tinola, Corniglia, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $$-$$$
  • Overall thoughts: probably the worst meal in Cinque Terre, but it could have been because our experience wasn’t that great (as opposed to the food).  I will say that the trofie suits the pesto sauce better than spaghetti/linguini.  The seafood pasta was still fantastic and included a larger variety of seafood than normal.  

Meal: Dinner at Gambero Rosso (Sept. 8, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) insalata caprese – €15
    (2) tegame di Vernazza (anchovies baked with potatoes and tomatoes) – €12
    (3) mussles cooked with wine and parsley – €12
    (4) vino della casa (1 liter) – €12
    (5) dessert (not sure what it was, but there is a picture below!)

Gambero Rosso, Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $$-$$$ – this is getting boring, but it’s another very reasonably-priced dinner in Vernazza!
  • Overall thoughts: another restaurant underneath the umbrellas.  It seems you can’t go wrong with the restaurants around the harbor in Vernazza!  Ryan tried the fresh anchovies which are another local specialty to try while visiting (much different than the salty canned anchovies, although those are great, too!).  The crowds at the restaurant were lively, and we had fun people-watching while we enjoyed the meal. 

Meal: Lunch at Trattoria La Scogliera in Manarola, Cinque Terre, Italy (Sept. 9, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) linguini alle vongole veraci (fresh clams) – €7.80
    (2) ravioli al pesto Genovese – €7.80
    (3) formaggi misti (mixed cheese plate) – €6
    (4) Cinque Terre D.O.C. wine – €15

Trattoria La Scogliera, Manarola, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $$
  • Overall thoughts: Luckily this restaurant stayed open a bit later than others in the area (we didn’t make it to Manarola until a little before 2:00pm).  I stuck with one of my favorites: seafood pasta in a white wine sauce, which was an ideal lunch (light and fresh!).  Ryan wanted another round of pesto pasta, this time in the form of ravioli, which was very tasty (I still like the trofie pasta the best).  The outdoor seating allowed us to watch the busy walkway as people made their way down toward the marina. 

Meal: Dinner at La Torre (Sept. 9, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) spaghetti scoglio (“reef spaghetti” – served with crustaceans & red sauce) – €11
    (2) pesto lasagna – €10
    (3) two glasses of white wine – €5 each

Dinner Day 3, Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy

  • Price: $$
  • Overall thoughts: this is a great option if you want to sneak away from the main square in Vernazza.  It’s a bit of a climb, but the result is an intimate restaurant with outdoor seating.  I would suggest going for lunch or an earlier dinner to enjoy the views of the town and sea below.  The food was consistent with our other meals in Cinque Terre – fresh, reasonably-priced, and delicious local specialties (pesto and seafood). 

Cinque Terre, and especially Vernazza, is on the top of my recommendation list for Italy. The pedestrian-only towns, the friendly locals, the carefree tourists, the sparkling sea, and the fresh and delicious food are just a few reasons to make a stop here on your trip.  Don’t forget to try many of the local specialties – trofie al pesto, fresh seafood (including anchovies!), and local wine.  I can’t wait to visit again for another taste of the Ligurian cuisine!

Food Run-Down: Venice, Italy 2009

After a lost food notebook scare (from our Portugal and Spain trip), I’ve decided to start digitally documenting the meals enjoyed during our travels.  These posts won’t be too detailed, but I will include where we ate, what we ordered (and some pictures), how much it cost, and an overall comment on the food/restaurant.  I’m starting at the beginning with Venice 2009 and will work my way through London 2012.  So, without further ado: Venice!

With a few exceptions, our food choices in Venice focused on anything from the sea. Since it was a first trip to Italy for the both of us, we also made sure to try pasta and pizza, the Italian staples here in the US.  Nothing we had was disappointing and after this trip we have continued dreamt of the Venetian cuisine.

One tip I’ve recently read is to visit the morning fish market to see what’s for sale – that will give you an idea of what is fresh from that day when you are ordering fish later that night for dinner.  I didn’t even think of that on this trip, so I stuck to whatever sounded delicious (and it never led me astray). 

Meal: Dinner at Trattoria Povoledo (Sept. 4, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) Collalto Chardonnay – €20
    (2) Spaghetti ai frutti di mare (seafood pasta) – €15
    (3) Prosciutto pizza – €12

Trattoria Povoledo, Venice, Italy

  • Price: $$ – not bad for a (presumably) touristy restaurant right on the Grand Canal.
  • Overall thoughts: I was so happy with our first meal in Italy.  Yes, it was on the Grand Canal, so while it may have been a touristy place, the prices were reasonable and the food was fresh and light.  My seafood pasta was delicious (the spaghetti was cooked al dente, perfection!) and Ryan’s pizza was so good that I wanted to order pizza the next day (I used to eat pizza very rarely, so this was a big deal!).  The view was also a huge plus.  We had just arrived in Venice, so it was my chance to admire the Grand Canal for the first time.

Meal: Lunch at Trattoria Locanda al Raspo de Ua in Burano, Venice, Italy (Sept. 5, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) half liter of Prosecco – €4.50
    (2) steamed mussels with lemon
    (3) Frutti di mare pizza

Trattoria Locanda Al Raspo de Ua, Burano, Venice, Italy

  • Price: $$ – the total bill was right around €25, and we left about €2-3 for the tip.
  • Overall thoughts: A great choice for lunch in Burano.  It was very crowded, but we were able to sit right away and didn’t have to wait long for our food.  The mussels were delicious (especially with extra lemon juice squeezed on top) and the seafood pizza was very unique, but tasty!  I would definitely consider revisiting on another trip to Burano.

Meal: Snacks in Venice (Sept. 4 & 5, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) gelato
    (2) panini
    (3) cappucino

Snacks in Venice, Italy

  • Price: $ 
  • Overall thoughts: the gelato was creamy and rich everywhere, and the flavors were inventive compared to the standard ice cream shops in the US.  I’d maybe skip the sandwiches, which were just okay (were sold just off of Piazza San Marco and were €4 each).  The cappuccino stop provided a quick rest during the busy day, and it’s something we should have made time for more than just once!

Meal: Dinner at Alle Testiere (Sept. 5, 2009)

  • What we ordered:
    (1) mixed seafood appetizer from the Adriatic Sea (with lobster, cuttlefish, shrimp, octopus, spider crab, anchovy, baby calamari, and a toasted baguette topped with a mixture of cod, milk, vegetable oil and garlic) – €18
    (2) Sea bream fillets with fine herbs and citrus sauce – €25
    (3) Prawns with coriander, ginger, and lime sauce (it was also served with polenta, which was a pleasant surprise!) – €25
    (4) bottle of chardonnay – €24

    Alle Testiere, Venice, Italy

  • Price: $$$$ – the bill came to €95 for one shared appetizer, two entrees (€25 each), a bottle of wine, and a bottle of water. 
  • Overall thoughts: absolutely fantastic.  This is the type of restaurant I wish we were always able to find.  We were extremely lucky – we were looking for a different place and stumbled upon Alle Testiere around 10:00pm.  Unfortunately, they had a limited menu, but they agreed to sit us at the one free table.  We later found out that they have two seatings for dinner and we were about 45 minutes late for the second one. Even with the limited menu (no pasta), the meal exceeded our expectations.  The appetizer started a continuing trend of ordering mixed appetizers featuring specials from the area (it also began my love for cuttlefish).  A great find, and a restaurant I will track down again the next time I’m in Venice.

Meal: Breakfast at Al Doge Beato Hotel (Sept. 6, 2009)

  • Included: croissants, rolls, butter, jam, nutella, juice, and tea
  • Overall thoughts: it was great to have the breakfast included in the hotel.  We missed it our first morning because we were out and about so early.  It was much better than paying €5+ for a smaller croissant and a bottle of juice! 

Breakfast in Venice

 Meal: Lunch at Hostaria Galileo (Sept. 6, 2009)

What we ordered:
(1) half liter of house white wine – €8
(2) tagliatelle with shrimp and zucchini – about €12
(3) fried calamari – about €12

Hostaria Galieo, Venice, Italy

  • Price: $$ – a bit expensive for small portions, but it wasn’t bad.
  • Overall thoughts: the food was delicious and the are was tucked away from the main tourist route.  

Meal: Dinner at Hotel Principe (Sept. 6, 2009) – the engagement dinner!

  • What we ordered:
    (1) bottle of Prosecco
    (2) sliced raw fish seasoned with oil and Sicilian citrus fruits
    (3) pappardelle du funghi porcini (pappardelle with porcini mushrooms)
    (4) riccioli di grano duro con asparagi di bassano capesante nostrane (homemade pasta with scallops and asparagus) 
    (5) tortino caldo al cioccolato con crema alla vaniglia (warm chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream)

Hotel Principe, Venice, Italy

  • Price: $$-$$$: I didn’t write down pricing information, but made some guesses in my notes (maybe around €15 for the appetizer and each entree).  
  • Overall thoughts: Another great view, if you aren’t trying to stay away from restaurants on the Grand Canal.  I think the raw fish appetizer was salmon, and it was fresh and tart (from the citrus).  It satisfied my “sushi craving” during the Italy portion of our trip!  The homemade pastas surpassed my expectations and the unusual combinations (scallops and asparagus!) played with our tastebuds.  It was a great way to celebrate our engagement!

Our next trip to Venice will feature similar foods (fresh seafood being the main objective), but more attention will be paid to choosing the restaurants.  I wish I had a better memory of my thoughts on the food, but luckily my journal provided some insight and brought me back to Venice for a few moments.  My stomach cannot wait to get back to Venice to experience some of the best seafood and pastas that it has ever tasted!

My London To-Do List

Before the trip, we made a list of things do and it was extremely difficult to cut some of the activities from the itinerary.  Instead of cramming in every single item on my original list, I adopted the mentality that there is always going to be another trip (and there will be).  Therefore, I already have a list of going of activities to include on the next trip.

In the city of London, I would add more museum time.  This includes visiting those that didn’t make the cut and also adding time to museums we’ve already visited.  The former includes the following top (free) choices:

  • Tate Modern – we walked past the outside after our stroll on Millenium Bridge, but Tate Modern, New Design, London, UKwe never made it inside Tate Modern (see the modern planned addition in the picture to the right, from the museum website).  In addition to enticing temporary exhibits, the museum houses permanent collections of Monet, Matisse, and Picasso (and more!), which I thoroughly enjoy.  
  • Victoria and Albert Museum – a museum different from the others, featuring decorative arts of all types from all over the world.  It isn’t one of those museums that screams “London,” so it didn’t make the cut for my first trip, but it’s something different and I plan to visit it on the next trip!  Some of the items include jewelry, furniture, clothes, glass and much more.    
  • British Library – I will admit, I just really want to see the Magna Carta after learning about it year after year in history class.  We didn’t make time for it this trip, but it’s something I can look forward to for a future trip.  Luckily, it’s free so I won’t feel obligated to stay too long.

As for museums we’ve already visited, I would love to spend more time at the British Museum and the National Gallery.  They are both so different: the British Museum with the history of mankind and the National Gallery with an extensive collection of paintings.  We actually visited both on the same rainy day, so I’m sure they were a bit busier than normal.  That being said, the crowds were manageable and we just waited our turn for some of the important artifacts at the British Museum (like the Rosetta Stone) and the more popular paintings at the National Gallery (my favorites were the variations of the lily pad painting by Monet).  And now, a little bit about what we were able to see at each, and what I’d like to do next time:  

  • National Gallery – We each paid £4 for the “Manet to Picasso” audioguide, with about 20 or so paintings selected in a brochure (spread out among 5 rooms).  There were about 6 options for audioguides.  The device itself was the same for each one; what differentiated the guides was the brochure that came with it – it helps the user focus on specific paintings (and lets you know which room they’re in!) and provides the audioguide code for some of the popular paintings (the codes were not available for all paintings).  That being said, the majority of the audio files were accessible to anyone that paid for an audioguide.  Next time we will plan to do two different “tours” (the other one that tempted me was a “best of”-type guide) so that we can take advantage of two sets of the carefully selected paintings.Nereid Monument, British Museum, London, England, UK, Europe
  • British Museum – we did the Rick Steves audio tour (they are entertaining and include a lot of information – download them on your phone before you travel), which brought us through the Egyptian exhibit (including animal statues, slabs with hieroglyphics, and mummies), the Assyrian exhibit (the Nimrud Gallery stole the show), and finally ending up in the Greece exhibit, which houses the Nereid Monument (pictured above) and the Elgin Marbles (originally on the exterior of the Parthenon).  The room (separated into three parts) with the Parthenon remains was very spacious and the crowds were no issue. We covered the highlights, but there is so much more to the museum that I hope to explore on the next trip. 

Outside of the heart of London, these are several places I would love to visit on a return trip:

  • Kew Gardens – a 300-acre botanical garden, just outside of the city of London.  It’s right off of the River Thames, so you can actually take a boat there from London.  I can’t imagine a better way to escape the city than admiring a beautiful garden!  There are even free tours of the gardens offered daily.  Also, with some extra time, I would visit the nearby Hampton Court Palace.  
  • Windsor Castle – it’s Queen Elizabeth II’s primary residence and it’s open for tours!Windsor Castle, London, UK  The ticket price includes an audioguide and admission into the State Apartments, Queen Mary’s Dollhouse (a miniature version of the palace), the Drawings Gallery, and St. George’s Chapel.  You can also take a free tour of the grounds (that lasts 30 minutes) that depart twice an hour.  It’s also very easy to get to Windsor Castle – either a 30 minute ride from the Paddington tube station (with one easy change) or a 50 minute ride from the Waterloo tube station (direct).  The picture to the left is one of Windsor Castle that Ryan took on a trip he took 10 years ago.
  • Stonehenge – if we visit London in a month other than November, we already have a plan for our visit to Stonehenge.  Instead of visiting Stonehenge during normal operating hours, we would book ahead for the Stonehenge Stone Circle Access tour (the tour was not offered in November – I am assuming this is an annual closure). This allows a limited number of visitors access to the inner circle of the stones, either before or after the site is open to the public.  There is not a tour guide or audioguide, so bringing a book with information is a must.  We would also book a taxi service instead of taking a train plus a bus to Stonehenge, which would save some time and also allow us to possibly add another site to the itinerary for the day!

After writing all of that out, it seems like our next trip is practically planned.  There is just so much to see, do, eat, and enjoy in London.  It’s one of the cities that we plan to return to many times, maybe even as soon as two years from now!  

7 London Experiences for a Return Visit

I’ve now been to London 3 times: first with a middle school group, next with my mother, and just recently with my wife.  Each trip offered something new and enjoyable, and London, more than anywhere I’ve visited, is a place to return again and again.  In reflecting on this last trip, I thought of a list of seven highlights for a return visit (in no particular order):

1. The Strand

Fleet Street London

The walk along The Strand and Fleet Street from Trafalgar Square up Ludgate Hill to St. Paul’s Cathedral goes through my favorite part of London. It follows a historic route used in the Middle Ages to connect the City of London with Westminster.  Along the way, it’s a thrill to peek into Temple Inns of Court (all lawyers must live here during their internship), admire the wedding cake steeple at St. Bride’s Church, and peek into the historic taverns that still line the road. To really appreciate this part of London, it’s also rewarding to wander the narrow lanes and alleys.  On this last visit, we used Rick Steves’ guided walk through this area (link to map and audioguide).  On previous trips, I’d seen this part of London, but reading about the historic roots of the neighborhood and venturing off the main drag really made this walk a memorable experience and ultimately a trip highlight.

2. Tower of London

The Tower of London is on nearly everyone’s itinerary on a short trip to London, and it should stay on itineraries for return trips.  There is a lot to see at the Tower, and even after three visits, I still haven’t seen it all.  This last visit was probably the most rewarding, because of the planning we did ahead of time to avoid crowds.  We benefited from visiting London in the off-season (late November), but even then, we went out of our way to arrive at the Tower exactly at opening time on its first early day of the week (9am on Tuesday).  We literally had the crown jewels to ourselves and circled the conveyor belts at least five times.  It was also refreshing to find that our Yeoman’s tour was completely different than the one I went on during my last visit.  Not only did we visit different sites, but the Yeoman had completely different stories to share and his own unique personality. 

 3. Pub Grub

Pub Grub

For those who are returning to London after a long hiatus (my hiatus was 9 years, 2003-2012), the food scene in London has changedand for the better (although my opinion may be influenced by the fact that I am now of drinking age).  Many pubs now strive to serve innovative and quality cuisine along with great English beer.  Meanwhile, I’ve also became more adventurous.  In addition to fish & chips (a standard go-to for Americans at London pubs), I sampled roasts, meat pies, and burgers.  One pub we visited even offered a quality pâté for an appetizer.  After returning from previous trips, I always had to qualify my adoration for London with a disclaimer that the cuisine is lacking.  Now, I will actually look forward to eating in London, and am actually already missing pub grub!

 4.  London Docklands

On previous trips to London, I’ve always confined my sightseeing within Zone 1 of the London Underground.  However, to see the real modern-day London, visitors need to travel further east, to the London Docklands.  The best time to visit during the work week, when the 5 square blocks surrounding the Canary Wharf Underground Station are a hubbub of activity.  We had a fun time wandering through the underground shopping mall and watching London’s workforce (which is much better dressed than America’s, save DC and New York) rushing from work to lunch.  The futuristic self-driven Docklands Light Rail (DLR) connects the Canary Wharf area with Greenwich to the south and the new olympic facilities to the north.  Visiting the Docklands is probably not a priority for first time visitors with limited time in London, but for a return visit, it is interesting to see this new part of the city.

 5. Holiday Season

Covent Garden during the holidays

My past two trips to London occurred during summer, with plenty of large crowds and hot weather.  This trip, we visited in Late November, at the beginning of the holiday season in London.  In planning our trip, we were excited to see that decorations would be up and several Christmas markets running.  Our expectations on London’s holiday cheer were more than surpassed.  The decorations at Covent Garden (above) and beautiful Christmas lights on Regent Street were spectacular.  A favorite was the Southbank Christmas Market, a Bavarian-style Christmas market with fun handicrafts, German food, and hot chocolate! More details can be found in Kristin’s post on Christmas in London.  We were lucky with the weather (cold, but little precipitation), but I found myself enjoying winter in London much more than the summer.  We are already planning on returning to London at the same time on our next trip!  For those who have only experienced London in the summer, I certainly recommend trying a visit during the holidays.

6. Churchill War Rooms

I first visited the Churchill War Rooms on my second trip to London.  As a World War II buff, getting a glimpse of the UK headquarters during the war is fascinating and I didn’t mind sharing the experience again with my wife on our recent trip.  I was excited to find that since my second visit, there is also now a Churchill Museum co-located with the War Rooms (since 2005).  The museum provides a very comprehensive overview of the life of Winston Churchill.  We found the material so fascinating that we spent over an hour exploring the audiovisual experiences.  If it weren’t for our tired feet, we could have stayed much longer!  If your last visit to the War Rooms occurred prior to 2005, or if you just ran out of time exploring the museum, it’s certainly worth a visit on a return trip to London.

7. Parliament

Westminster Hall

Government and politics have always been an interest of mine, and unfortunately my trips to London and my only trip to Washington D.C. occurred during legislative recesses.  I was thrilled when I realized it was a possibility to see the UK Parliament in action on this last trip.  Given that it was off-season and a weekday, the lines to gain admission were very reasonable, although it isn’t hard to imagine that they could quickly become unmanageable with larger crowds.  After clearing security and getting a close-up view of Big Ben, we saw historic Westminster Hall (picture above).  We then climbed a maze of stairs to the House of Commons viewing gallery, and listened to a committee debate (more details in my specific post on this subject).  In future trips, I want to try and see the House of Lords and attend when it is in full session.  Even in committee, however, I found it fascinating.

It’s remarkable how much London has to offer visitors.  Not only is there so much to see that there are new places to visit each trip, but the places visited in past trips are so interesting that they warrant a revisit.  I’ve found each sequential trip to London more rewarding and can’t wait to visit again (in fact, we both wish we could find a way to live there)!

7 London Experiences for a First-Time Visit

Most of these probably won’t come as a surprise (we’ve even written about some of them extensively), but I’ve compiled my list of the top 7 things to do and see in London for a first-time visit.  It wasn’t easy and I’m sure not everyone would agree with all of the items, but here is what I would recommend for a first trip to London:

1. Tower of London

Crown Jewels, Tower of London

It may be expensive and crowded, but the Tower of London is worth a few hours of your time.  The Crown Jewels are a must-see and do be sure to take a (free!) tour with one of the Yeoman Warders (Beefeaters).  The tours are popular and may be large, but our Yeoman Warder had a booming voice and was full of stories and jokes about the Tower of London.  Other than that, see anything that sounds interesting – we visited the White Tower (it houses the Royal Armories’ collections), walked a portion of the wall surrounding the Tower of London, and spent some time looking at torture devices in the Lower Wakefield Tower.  Don’t forget: depending on when (time of year) you’re visiting, you may be able to take advantage of the 2-for-1 tickets – we only paid £20.90 for the two of us.

2. British Museum

An extensive collection of artifacts spanning human civilization, the British Museum is a perfect escape from a dreary London day (and it’s free!).  For a quick trip, I recommend following Rick Steves’ guide (found in his London book or here, where you can download an audio version).  He goes through the essentials – Egypt, Assyria, and Greece – and provides information about the key items in each section.  With more time, explore exhibits focusing on cultures from all over the world: Ancient and Imperial China, Ancient Rome, Incas, and Aztecs, to name a few.  In addition to the permanent exhibits, the museum has temporary exhibitions that may be worth a visit (flowers and plants from North America were being featured while we were there). 

3. Westminster Abbey and St. Paul’s Cathedral

College Garden, Westminster Abbey, LondonThe entrance fee (£18) to Westminster Abbey includes an audioguide with 20 listening points throughout the interior.  As you walk in through the north transept, you have a view of the breathtaking nave – the ornate vaulted ceiling was the show-stealer of Westminster Abbey. It was very impressive and something that has to be seen in person (the pictures don’t do it justice).  A substantial portion of the tour took us to various tombs, including that of Queen Elizabeth I and Kind Edward the Confessor (he built the original Westminster Abbey).  We finished our visit outside in the Cloisters, and then continued to the Little Cloister and College Garden (pictured above – according to Rick Steves it is only open Tuesday-Thursday).  

The entrance fee (£15) to St. Paul’s Cathedral also includes a free audioguide and access to both the dome and the crypt.  We started out in the nave, made our way around the spacious church, and then started up the stairs leading to the dome.  If you are physically able, there are about 500 or so stairs that lead up to the top of the dome and I highly recommend the trip.  The first level (about 250 steps up) brings you to a walkway around the inside of the dome, overlooking the church interior.  The second and third stops are outside of the dome, with sweeping (and windy) views of London.  We finished our visit down in the crypt.  We started in a room with the Oculus, 270° film that shows the history of St. Paul’s Cathedral, and finished by admiring the numerous tombs of famous people.  A visit to St. Paul’s Cathedral is definitely worth 1.5 hours during your trip!

4. Borough Market and Portobello Market

I wrote about the markets in more detail here, but they were so enjoyable that they deserve another mention.  Even if you don’t plan to purchase any souvenirs, bring your appetite and plan to have lunch or a snack while browsing the offerings.  Remember to visit Borough Market on Thursday-Saturday and Portobello Market on a Saturday to enjoy the full-blown markets.

5. Indian Food

Ryan wrote aboutvegetable masala, Woodlands Restaurant, London the two Indian restaurants we tried in London and I think it’s safe to say I wouldn’t have minded trying more.  I wasn’t familiar with the vegetarian dishes found in southern India, so I welcomed the chance to taste something new (the picture to the right shows my appetizer from the dinner – vegetable masala idli: steamed rice and lentils with mixed vegetables) .  Next time I visit, I plan to expand my palate even more – either by choosing more adventurous dishes from the menu or trying a new cuisine (such as Pakistani).  Don’t miss a spicy meal in the land known for bland food!

6. Afternoon Tea

Cream Tea, The Wolseley, LondonWhether it’s cream tea (just tea and scones) or a full-blown afternoon tea (tea, scones, pastries, sandwiches, and champagne, if you wish), an afternoon tea break to unwind is a must! Not only is it fun to take part in an English tradition, but sitting down to tea is a great break from walking around and serves as a snack to tide you over until dinner.  The picture on the left is from our cream tea at The Wolseley.  Some of the well-known tea rooms include those at The Ritz, Fortnum & Mason, and Claridge’s, but tea rooms can be found almost anywhere (including department stores and book stores), ranging in prices.

7. See a show

Along with Broadway shows in New York, musicals in London are another must-see. Known for it’s great theater district, London has several famous shows to choose from each night.  We planned to see Les Misérables and purchased tickets ahead of time, but for another trip I would consider getting half-price tickets the day of the show.  Ryan provided information for anyone considering a show (whether you choose to book ahead or try out the half-price tickets, his post will be helpful).  Plan a fancy night out, with a pre-show drink and a late-night post-show dinner!

This list is a great start for a first visit to London.  And the good news is, these can all be done on a short 3-4 day trip!  The days will be long, but a sample plan could go as follows:

Day 1 – Borough Market (plan to eat lunch there!), Westminster Abbey (1.5-2 hours), and Indian food for dinner (if your first day is a full day, the morning will be clear for any other must-see sites on your list!)

Day 2 – The Tower of London (3-4 hours), lunch break, St. Paul’s Cathedral (1.5-2 hours), a show in London’s West End (with dinner either before or after)

Day 3 – Portobello Market in the morning (eat an early snack/lunch there), British Museum in the early afternoon (~2 hours), and an afternoon tea break to rejuvenate before the rest of the night

This plan leaves some time to wander around, stop at a pub or two, and add extra sites as you see fit.  Enjoy your trip to London!