Tag Archives: Portugal/Spain 2012 Trip

Orejas y Fútbol

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Evenings in Madrid enthralled us.  On the warm fall nights during our visit, we discovered swarms of energetic people, spirited music, and an electrifying atmosphere.  This jubilation   apexed around Plaza de Santa Ana, the heart of Madrid’s nightlife scene.  It was here that we began our culinary adventure through Madrid’s tapas offerings.

Our first tapas stop in Madrid was a planned one.  As we do in preparation for all our trips, we repeatedly watched relevant Rick Steves episodes prior to our departure.  A scene capturing Rick eating sautéed pig ears in his Madrid episode especially intrigued us.  Accordingly, we followed his lead and ordered a ración of oreja (ears) at the Orjea de Oro bar, along with two glasses of the Galician ribeiro wine (€1 each!), and an order of patatas bravas.  The taste of the ears was recognizable–not too different from bacon–but the texture was wild.  Just like one might expect, the dish was “cartilagy” and far from tender.  The pieces of ear served already cut-up, so luckily minimal chewing was required.  

Our oreja ración at Oreja de Oro

To our chagrin, instead of a colorful local, we found ourselves sitting next to a fellow Rick Steves aficionado.  He was similarly following Rick’s trail through Madrid’s tapas offerings, but could not muster the courage to order the orjeas.  He had no shame communicating with the English-speaking bartender in Spanish that was nothing short of abysmal.  Despite the lack of local flavor and toughness of the orejas, we do not our regret our experience.

Anxious to find an authentic local experience, we sought out a tapas bar playing that night’s Real Madrid fútbol match.  After surveying several options, we found a spot called La Venta de Farracas just a few blocks away with plenty of buzz and an open table.  We ordered traditional tapas, all of which we had sampled in other Spanish cities–croquettes, fried calamari, and more patatas bravas.  I ordered a couple of Spanish beers to accompany the food.  The food itself was decent, but the real highlight was the fútbol game.  All eyes were fixed on a large big screen television in the back of the establishment.  Unlike the modern American sports bar, with dozens of digitial high definition televisions, this spot had one television, with a noisy analog signal.  This did not distract the crowd, however. They chanted, cheered, and groaned just as they would at the stadium.   To their dismay, the game resulted in a loss for Real Madrid to underdog Sevilla.

That same night, we also visited a pintxos bar called Txakolina for  and and one additional Rick Steves recommendation in Casa Toni to completely satiate our appetite.  We ended the night with a strong sense of accomplishment at successfully completing a 4-stop tapas crawl.   

The Best Things in Madrid are Free

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Well, at least some of the best things are free!  Two of my favorite sites in Madrid were the Prado museum and Retiro Park.  The art featured at the Prado was fun to learn about and beautiful to admire and Retiro Park was a much-needed break from the bustling streets of Madrid.  Before going into detail, I do want to mention that the Prado is not always free, only during certain times.  So, plan well and you can save quite a bit of money!

We stayed at the Westin Palace in Madrid, which was conveniently located a few minutes from the Prado.  This was perfect because the Prado was on the top of our list for places to visit while in Madrid, and since I was under the weather at the end of our trip, traveling too far was not appealing.  We made our way over to the entrance around 17:00 on our first day only to find that the cost was an exorbitant 12 euros per person (22 with the official guide!).  Willing to pay, we almost continued on.  However, we then saw a sign saying that the Prado entrance would be free starting at 18:00! [For more information on pricing and when the museum is free, check the Prices page on the Prado website.  The short answer: Monday through Saturday, 18:00-20:00 (closing) and Sundays, 17:00-19:00 (closing)].

The official guides are not available during the free entry hours, but the information desk has brochures in several languages that map out the popular paintings throughout the museum.  In addition, the Prado website has information about 15 masterpieces found at the museum.  We used our Rick Steves’ Spain guidebook to help us focus on particular paintings and learn additional information about each one, but we did find that most paintings had some sort of description in Spanish and English.  

Since the line didn’t take long to get through and the crowds were manageable during the free time, the only real downside is that the time is limited to the last two hours that the museum is open each day.  We were able to see plenty in those two hours, but there is so much to see in the Prado, so for many, a full (or at least longer) day might be more practical than waiting for the free time to start.

Close to the Prado, Retiro Park (Parque del Buen Retiro) sits on over 300 acres of land…in the middle of Madrid!  It’s hard to believe that the beautiful and peaceful gardens are located in the middle of such a lively city.  Throughout the park there are trees to provide shade and, in several instances, we noticed people laying around, either sleeping or reading a book.  If relaxing in the park fits your agenda, think about bringing a towel or blanket to really enjoy the park like a local.  

Retiro Park was nice and relaxing, but also lively with tourists and locals alike – especially around the lake.  We visited on a Saturday afternoon, so the area around the lake was packed with families and couples.  We sat on the ledge by the lake (seen in the picture to the right) and watched as people purchased food and souvenirs or just hurried by, chatting away.  We enjoyed watching the people having fun on the lake, rowing in the rented boats.  I was considering renting one, but it was very hot out (around 90° or so) and the lake was completely unprotected from the blazing sun.  So, we sat instead, shaded by the trees surrounding the lake and enjoyed our time people-watching.    

With so many expensive attractions in large cities, it’s always nice when there is a little something for free.  In addition to the free hours at the Prado and the always-free Retiro Park, the Reina Sofía (a great modern art museum in Madrid) offers free hours and Plaza Mayor, always bustling, is free (and not too expensive for a sit-down meal and drink).  

However your time is spent in Madrid, do not forget to enjoy some of the greatest sites the city has to offer – for free!

City Overview: Madrid, Spain

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City. Madrid, Spain

When? Friday, September 14 – Sunday, September 16 (2 nights).  The 2 nights were a little rushed.  We visited all of our top priority sites (Prado, Palace, etc.), but another night would have allowed us to consider a day trip to Toledo.

Where? We stayed at the Westin Palace Madrid in a Junior Suite.  The hotel has an excellent location, directly opposite the Prado and a short walk from Plaza de Santa Ana, which is one of Madrid’s liveliest nightlife scenes.  We only paid $90 + 4800 SPG points per night.  The same room usually costs €399.  Without our Starwood points, we likely would not have found the hotel to be a good value.

Transportation. Central Madrid is very walkable, although there are busses and an underground subway to get around.  The only time we hired a cab was for travelling from the train station to the hotel and from the hotel to the airport.

Food. Madrid had an excellent tapas scene, especially around Plaza de Santa Ana.  We had no problem finding a variety of options to piece together a tapas crawl.  In addition to ordering the patatas bravas that are available everywhere, we also tried orejas (pig ears – pictured below), visited a pintxos bar, and sampled champiñones (sauteed mushrooms).  We had one lunch on Plaza Mayor, which has a unique ambiance, but unremarkable food.  Unfortunately, Kristin wasn’t feeling well during our stay in Madrid, so we weren’t able to pursue the cuisine options as aggressively as we’d hoped.  Our impression was that Madrid had more to offer than any of the other Spanish cities we visited on our trip, perhaps only rivaled by Sevilla.

Day Trips. None.  We would have likely visited Toledo if we had more time though.

Attractions. The highlight for us was the Prado.  We aren’t art lovers, but we found our visit to the Prado very enjoyable.  The Prado is our new favorite art museum in Europe, far surpassing the Louvre and the Uffizi.  Also, it is nice that the Prado is free in the evenings, and we found the crowds to be very bearable.  We also enjoyed our visit to the Madrid Palace.  All of the important rooms are open to the public at the Madrid Palace, and visitors really gain an appreciation for the grandeur of Spanish royalty.  We also visited the Reina Sofia (modern art museum), Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol, and Retiro Park.

Language Barrier. Almost everyone spoke English.  We had some minor communication difficulties at a pharmacy and one of the less busy tapas bars, but overall the language barrier was very manageable.

Cost. The cost of food seemed comprable to other places in Spain.  As could be expected, our meal on the Plaza Mayor was probably overpriced considering the quality of the food.

Advice.  Dedicate at least one night to a tapas crawl.  Wonder along some of the smaller streets around Plaza de Santa Ana, to avoid some of the more crowded and touristy options.  Although the Prado and the Madrid Palace are worth a visit, the cuisine scene is what really impressed us.

Closing comments.  Madrid is often a focus of many travel itineraries in Spain.  Appropriately so, considering its status as the nation’s capital.  However, it is a relatively young city and lacks some of the history and tradition found in other European cities.  We would prioritize a stop in Andalucía above Madrid if time is limited, but still believe Madrid is worth at least two nights if time permits.

 

Alhambra by Day

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As much as I loved our night visit to the Alhambra, I’m glad we were able to go back and experience the Palacios Nazaries during the day as well.  

As I mentioned in my planning post, we purchased tickets for the morning visit to the Alhambra, with an 8:30 entrance to the Palacios Nazaries.  It was early, but definitely worth it to beat the heat and the crowds.  I would highly recommend an early morning visit (no later than 9:30 would be my preference).  Even with the early entrance, there were a couple of tour groups, and it’s hard to enjoy the beautiful Moorish details and the relaxing courtyards with large groups of talking tourists. 

Since the 8:30 entrance time is the first available spot, it’s your best bet for enjoying the Palacios Nazaries without the extra noise and people.  We arrived about 15 minutes early, and there were about 15-20 people in line ahead of us.  However, unlike other time slots, the 8:30 slot allows no possibility of hundreds of tourists already roaming around the palace, clogging up the passageways and courtyards.  We were amongst the first people in for the day.  And, better yet, since we had already seen the palace at night, we skipped the very first room (which can get congested) and essentially had the entire place to ourselves (we did end up going back to the first room to take a look at the detailed walls in the daylight, but it was so extremely crowded that we only stayed for a few minutes).  The quiet and empty palace gave us room to move about each area to see the details and talk to each other without yelling. 

A closer look at the Moorish details at the Palacios Nazaries

As far as a guide for the daytime visit, we decided to try out the audio guide (6 euros) since we had already read the majority of Rick Steves’ site tour.  I’m glad we rented the audio guide because it gave some extra information (a lot of it was the same, though), and would recommend it if you don’t have something else to guide you through the palace.  The Palacios Nazaries will still be beautiful and amazing without a guide, but learning the use of each room or a story about something that happened in a courtyard really brings the palace to life and helps you appreciate it so much more.

Our daytime visit of the Palacios Nazaries lasted about an hour and a half, but had we not been on the night visit, we would have been there for at least two hours to take everything in.  While the moonlight and yellowed lights gave a mysterious and magical feel to the palace at night, the Moorish details on the walls and ceilings could be seen much better with the daylight.  The visit ended through a garden courtyard, which was closed during the night visit, and we were ready for the next stop on our Alhambra tour.

We were very excited to see the Generalife Gardens and the Alcazaba, since neither were open during the night visit.  The route through the Palacios Nazaries led us away from the entrance and toward the gardens, so we continued that way and enjoyed the beautiful flowers and trees along the path.  It took about 15-20 minutes to get there, but it was a flat walk, and at 10:00, it wasn’t too hot yet.  There are a few spots along the way which boasted great views of Granada, so we took a few breaks (as shown in the picture above).

The summer house of Charles V is what you pay for with the “Generalife Gardens” – the ticket-collector stands right outside the entrance to the house.  However, the most impressive part of the gardens is just before the house – mazes of hedges, beautiful flowers, romantic paths underneath canopies of greenery, and trickling water features.  While still older than almost any place I visit on a regular basis, the gardens right before the house were not built until the 20th century.  I couldn’t help but feel a bit disappointed by how “new” it was, but we enjoyed the area nonetheless.  The expansive gardens allowed us to wander around without bumping into too many other tourist groups.  We spent very little time in the actual house.  The courtyard was pretty, but felt small and confined after visiting the Palacios Nazaries.  The house itself was nothing special – no elaborate decorations and only three rooms.

After we had enough of the Generalife Gardens, we made the 15-20 minute trek back to the Alcazaba, which is just a bit further past the entrance of the Palacios Nazaries.  Overall we were disappointed by the Alcazaba, but mostly because we were expecting more of an old fort, open for exploring (think Rocca Maggiore, in Asissi, Italy).  Instead, it was an old fort with a one way route guiding toursits on a predetermined path, with no room for veering.  We were able to get some great views of the city, but it would have been much more fun to roam through the ruins.  The entrance (and exit) is right near the entrance to the Palacios Nazaries, so it is worth a visit if you come before your entrance time (assuming it’s not the 8:30 entrance) or you have time afterwards.  It doesn’t take long to go through the fort, and there are several pieces of information on the audio guide. 

And finally, we spent very little time at Charles V’s Palace.  We didn’t have the energy (nor the interest, really) to go into the museum, so we walked around the palace ground and upper floors and then made our way out of the Alhambra, the same way we had entered earlier that morning.

My final tips for the Alhambra: 

  • Choose a morning start time for the Palacios Nazaries, the earlier the better (to avoid crowds and the afternoon heat)
  • Use an audio guide (purchased at the Alhambra) or a different guide to learn more about the Alhambra
  • Take your time and don’t feel bad about going backwards if you want to wait for the crowds or tour groups to move
  • Enjoy!

Day Trip to Nerja from Granada

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We originally wanted to fit a few days at the Costa del Sol (Spain’s South coast) into our latest trip itinerary, but we just didn’t have enough time.  As a compromise, we decided to squeeze in a short day trip to the town of Nerja while we were staying 3 nights in Granada.  Alsa, a bus carrier in Spain, runs 7 trips per day to connect the two towns.  Each trip takes approximately 2 to 2½ hours and costs €10 each way.  The bus station in Granada is not centrally located, but can be reached easily by local buses or taxi.  The Nerja station is also not central, but is a quick 10 minute walk to the main retail and restaurant area or a 10-20 minute walk to any of the town’s great beaches. Although a trip back and forth is a lot to fit into a day, we thought our journey to Nerja was well worth the time investment.  We experienced a whole new culture of Spain, and enjoyed some excellent sunshine, cheap food, and warm Mediterranean water.

The ride to Nerja on the Alsa bus was very pleasant.  The drive follows a major highway that skirts by the Sierra Nevada mountains.  It passes over several dramatic gorges and by  many wind turbines, both major feats in engineering.  After reaching the ocean, if follows along the local road connecting all the coastal towns.  There are at least 2 stops between Granada and Nerja.  One nice surprise was that our Alsa bus to Nerja had free wifi on-board, which allowed us to do trip planning en route.  We were not so fortunate on our way back.

Once arriving in Nerja, we followed the road down to the Balcony of Europe, which is pictured above.  On the way, we picked-up a beach towel for €6 (well worth it in comparison to dragging your own all around Europe).  The Balcony of Europe offers some very picturesque views of the surrounding beaches, coastal mountains, and the expansive Mediterranean.  Africa is likely too far away to see even on a very clear day, but it’s exciting thinking it’s just beyond the horizon.

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