Experiencing Sevilla’s Bullfighting Tradition Without the Violence

We’ve heard many reports from Americans returning from Spain that are appalled by the blood and violence of bullfighting.  To be honest, this didn’t turn me off.  In fact, I was originally excited that our stay in Sevilla, arguably the bullfighting capital of Spain, straddled a Sunday night when bullfights traditionally occur.  It was our misfortune that this fall’s Novillos (amateur bullfighters with young bulls) were rescheduled for the first time from Sunday to Thursday nights.  Still anxious to get a taste of this facet of Spanish culture, we decided to spend an hour at the museum at Sevilla’s Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza.  Bilingual tours are offered 3 times per hour for €6.50.

The tour offers a glimpse at the inside of Sevilla’s Plaza de Toros, which is still a great photo op, even when empty.

We thought the tour was well worth the time and investment, and certainly gave us a good introduction to bullfighting history, as well as some “basics”.  In fact, we both discussed that we would recommend a visit to the museum to even those planning on attending a bullfight.  The material covered in the tour would no doubt give spectators a better appreciation of the sport.

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iPhone Offline Map Caching: The Perfect International Travel Companion

At home, we’ve become reliant on our vehicle navigation systems or smartphones to tell us how to get from one place to another.  It is difficult when traveling abroad to give-up this luxury, especially in places like Europe, where many cities were planned before the advent of the automobile, and directions and addressing isn’t always intuitive.  Paying for a data plan for smartphones is one solution, but it quickly becomes cost prohibitive.  This last trip, however, we discovered a very elegant workaround: if we explored the areas we planned on visiting in the iOS maps application on our hotel wi-fi connection, when we later went out, that map data would be cached and available for our use.  If there was a specific place we planned on going to, we would do a search right before, and “drop a pin” on the location.  Even with cellular data off, the phone’s GPS and compass function, allowing you to see yourself as the “little blue dot” in relation to your destination. Continue reading

Sagrada Família: Don’t Miss the Interior!

Sagrada Família, the Barcelona church still undergoing construction according to the ambitious vision of Catalan architect Antonio Gaudí, is by far the top sight in Barcelona.  The exterior is unique and interesting, but is no match for the interior.  Don’t be intimidated by the long lines (which move quick) or the €13 admission.  The time and money investment to see one of the most dramatic examples of modern architecture is a very worthwhile investment.

Looking up at the elaborate ceiling in the Sagrada Família’s nave

 Believe it or not, we were somewhat underwhelmed with the exterior of the building.  The Nativity Facade, which was the only section of the church completed while Gaudí was alive, is very cluttered and starting to show it’s age.  The newly completed Passion Facade seems much cleaner, and completed in what appears to be a much more modern style (which appealed to us).  The size of the building was not as impressive as we had expected, but I have no doubt that after completion, when capped by the 558-foot Jesus Christ tower, the size of the building will be spectacular.  Right now, the tallest tower is 394 feet.

After walking through the door at the Passion Facade we knew we were entering somewhere special.  Gaudí used nature to inspire his architecture, which is clear in Sagrada Família.  The columns used to support the building show a strong resemblance to tree trunks.  They are not straight pillars, as you would see in a more traditional church, but curvy.  Looking straight-up at the 148-ft high ceiling (about the same height at St. Peter’s in Rome), there are gorgeous patterns, as depicted in the picture of the nave above and like at ceiling installation Greenwich.

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Flying Discount Air Carrier Vueling in Europe

Traveling within Europe via air can be very affordable, often even cheaper than train travel.  On our recent trip to Spain and Portugal, we travelled between Lisbon and Barcelona on Vueling Airlines, Spain’s leading discount air carrier.  Our basic fare was much cheaper on Vueling than other carriers, at €18 per person.  Like all European discount carriers, the actual price we paid was significantly higher due to extra fees.  After €4 per person to book our seats ahead of time, €12 per suitcase (x2), a €10 credit card fee and €44 in taxes, we ended-up paying €61 per person for the flight.  Although it’s always difficult to stomach unadvertised fees, our total cost for the flight was far less than other options, and very affordable in comparison to flights of similar lengths in the United States.

Although air travel in Europe is fast and can be cheap, it’s not always necessarily the most convenient.  Lisbon is one of the few European cities with an airport near the city center, and even they are looking at options at relocating the airport to a less populated area.  The decentralized location of airports means extra time and money spent on taxi or transit to get to and from the airport.  Delays can also be more frequent than those experienced in the United States due to the high airspace congestion and airplane utilization.  In Lisbon, we weathered a 2 hour delay due to mechanical issues on our intended aircraft.  Finally, Europe enforces strict limits on luggage weight, including carry-ons.  This can make travel difficult for those who don’t pack lightly.

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Drinking with a View

Whether we’re abroad or in our own city of Bakersfield, Ryan and I love to sip drinks and eat snacks while taking in a view.  I received an email this morning from Fodor’s with a link to an article about the 10 best hotel bars with a view in Europe.  It’s great timing because we’ll be visiting three of the cities this fall!

In Lisbon, the article recommends the BA Terrace at the Bairro Alto Hotel.  This was already on my radar after reading about it in a Trip Advisor forum post.  Since our Lisbon itinerary is fairly relaxed (we plan to do a lot of exploring in the different neighborhoods), there will hopefully be time for us to visit this bar and enjoy the fantastic view!

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